GE Stove Repair in Toronto — Gas burner clicks constantly

• Wet or shorted spark ignition switch is the number-one GE constant-click cause -- the burner keeps ticking even with every knob OFF. On GE/Hotpoint/Profile gas ranges each knob rides a valve-stem-mounted spark ignition switch. GE uses two switch designs depending on the model run: WB24X10091 is a single switch that mounts on one knob's valve stem (12 o'clock orientation, superseding WB24X10089 / 946599 / PS651383) and is replaced individually per burner position, while WB24X10143 is a ganged 4-burner spark-ignition switch-and-harness that comes out as one unit. A boil-over or a damp cleaning soaks the switch contacts so they never open, and the spark module pulses non-stop. We dry the switch bank with low heat first; if it still clicks dry, the switch is shorted internally and gets replaced. We identify which design the range uses before quoting, since a single bad position on a WB24X10091-style range only needs that one switch, whereas a WB24X10143 range takes the whole harness.
• Cracked spark electrode firing to the wrong ground -- clicks but the burner may light then keep sparking. The GE burner igniter/electrode WB02X10822 (assembly with spring and clip; supersedes WB02X11363 / WB02X10794 / WB02X10780 / WB02X11267) cracks at the white ceramic insulator from spillover and thermal shock, so the spark jumps to the burner base instead of the cap gap and the module never sees a successful light. We inspect the ceramic for hairline cracks and carbon tracking, then swap the WB02X10822 for just that burner position.
• Spark module stuck pulsing every electrode at once. The GE spark module WB13T10076 (supersedes WB13X10011 / WB13X10012; common to GE ranges and GE cooktops, also Hotpoint/RCA/some Kenmore) is the brain that powers all surface electrodes -- when it fails internally it sends continuous spark to every burner regardless of knob position, the classic all-burners-click-together pattern. We confirm by checking that the clicking is on every position with all knobs off; a true module fault won't dry out or clear with a switch swap, so WB13T10076 is replaced.
• Burner sparks while it is already lit -- an orifice-holder / burner-base grounding fault, not the switch. If the flame is good but the igniter keeps ticking, the surface burner orifice holder WB02K10361 (or the burner base it seats in, WB16K10062 surface burner base / WB16K10026 double-burner assembly) has lost its ground path -- corroded, misaligned, or loose -- so the module never registers a completed spark-to-ground and keeps firing. We reseat and clean the holder-to-base contact, and replace the orifice holder or base if the grounding surface is pitted.
• Misaligned or wrong-seated burner cap keeps the spark searching. A GE burner cap or head (WB16K10055 surface burner head) rotated off its locating notch after cleaning, or a cap swapped onto the wrong-size head, leaves the electrode gap unshielded so gas can't bridge to the electrode and the burner clicks for 10-12 pulses and keeps going. We verify each cap matches and locks to its own head and sits flat before condemning any electrical part -- GE's own guidance is that a clean burner can still take several clicks normally, so cap fit is checked first.
• Carbonized electrode tip and clogged ports masking as an electrical fault. Spillover bakes onto the WB02X10822 electrode tip and the burner-head ports, so the spark is present but can't ignite escaping gas and the module keeps cycling. We clear the ports with a fine probe and clean the electrode gap; if the tip is eroded or the ceramic is carbon-tracked beyond cleaning, the WB02X10822 is replaced rather than chased as a module problem.
• Moisture intrusion after a deep clean is the seasonal repeat-offender -- damp under-knob spark switches short to a constant click within minutes of being wiped down. We distinguish this from a failed switch by drying the bank with low heat and a 24-hour rest; if clicking stops it was moisture, and we coach the owner to keep liquid off the knob collars. If it returns dry, the WB24X10091 spark switch (or the WB24X10143 switch-and-harness on harness-design ranges) is the genuine failure and gets replaced.

GE gas burner clicks constantly in Toronto — the local specifics

• The GE constant-click call we see again and again in Toronto follows a clean-or-boil-over: an owner wipes the cooktop or a pot runs over, and within minutes every burner is ticking with the knobs off. On GE that almost always points to moisture in the under-knob spark switches first (the single WB24X10091 per-position switch or the ganged WB24X10143 harness, depending on the model run), with cracked WB02X10822 electrodes and the occasional failed WB13T10076 spark module as the dry-state follow-ups. The all-burners-click-together pattern (module) versus one-position-won't-stop (switch or electrode) is how we sort it on the doorstep.
• We arrive at these GE gas-click calls carrying both switch designs -- the single WB24X10091 valve-stem switch and the WB24X10143 4-burner switch-and-harness -- plus the WB02X10822 burner igniter/electrode and the WB13T10076 spark module, plus a WB02K10361 orifice holder for the grounding-path variant -- the parts that close out the vast majority of Toronto GE constant-click jobs in one TSSA-certified visit.

For the full GE stove module — every fault, part number and code — see GE stove repair in Toronto, and for the same fault across all brands the stove gas burner clicks constantly guide.