GE Wall Oven Repair in Toronto — Oven not heating at all

• Open bake element is the #1 straight no-heat call on GE/Hotpoint ranges and wall ovens: the oven powers up, the display and lights are normal, but the cavity never warms and the bottom element does not glow red. The bake element GE specs here is WB44T10011 (AP2030997, supersedes WB44T10059/820921; PS249286) on the common 17-1/2-inch fitment, or the 2585W WB44T10010 (AP2030996, 770549; PS249285) by model. A meter reads no continuity across the terminals and there is usually a visible blister or burn-through at the loop. This is a confirm-and-swap on the element, not a board chase.
• No heat on broil only points at the broil element WB44T10009 (AP2030995, 770548; PS249284), the upper element fastened to the top of the cavity. The tell is an element that won't glow red when Broil is selected while Bake still works (or the reverse), so we test each heat path independently rather than condemning one element for both modes. On a true no-heat call we ohm both the bake and broil elements at their terminals before pricing any electronics.
• F3 / F4 are the GE sensor-circuit codes that leave the oven cold to stay safe: F3 = an OPEN temperature-sensor circuit (disconnected or broken probe, resistance reading high) and F4 = a SHORTED sensor circuit (the sensor leads touching, resistance reading low). The control cuts heat and faults out. The part is the RTD oven sensor WB21X5301 (AP2023670; PS236043), mounted on the rear wall near the broiler, which should read about 1100 ohms at room temperature unplugged. We meter the probe AND the harness at the control plug, because a failed sensor and a corroded/disconnected lead throw the identical F3/F4 and the same no-heat.
• Bake element tests good but still no heat means the bake relay on the GE control board (ERC) has failed to close the 240V leg to the element. GE's own literature flags 'oven won't heat' as the most common reason this board is replaced, with relay failure from heavy use being a known mode. The board is the WB27T-family ERC — WB27T11311 (PS3493487, supersedes WB27T10467 / WB27T10816 / WB27T11273) on TrueTemp-era ranges, or a newer-generation control such as WB27X45466 on current models by model/serial. We confirm there is no 240V at the element terminals during a bake call before condemning the board, because a board is the last honest suspect on a no-heat, not the first.
• On gas GE ovens the no-heat story is almost always the oven igniter: a flat-style igniter WB13K21 (AP2020569; PS231280, drawing ~3.4-3.6A) or the round glow-bar WB2X9154 (AP2014008; PS243425, drawing ~2.8-3.0A) by model. As it ages its resistance climbs and current falls, so it glows orange for more than 90 seconds but no longer draws the current needed to open the gas safety valve — the oven stays cold even though the igniter visibly glows. We amp-clamp the igniter while it glows: a reading well below its rated draw confirms a weak igniter; a sufficient draw with no flame points at the gas safety valve instead, not a second igniter.
• A blown one-shot thermal fuse / cut-off leaves a GE oven dead with no heat after an overheat or self-clean event — the bake element can test perfectly good while no element ever fires because the safety device has opened the circuit. It is a non-resettable part: we test it for continuity and replace it (never reset it), and we always diagnose WHY it tripped (a welded relay or stuck-high RTD that drove a runaway) before closing the call, because resetting heat without finding the cause is a fire risk.
• An F7 stuck-key fault can read as a no-heat to the owner: the control senses a button held down (a jammed Clean or Clear/Off key, or an unseated touchpad ribbon) and refuses to let Bake engage, so the oven never heats and beeps instead. A power-down for 30-60 seconds clears a false trip; a persistent F7 is a keypad/touchpad or control fault, kept separate from the genuine element, sensor and igniter heat faults above.

GE oven not heating at all in Toronto — the local specifics

• The recurring GE-in-Toronto no-heat pattern is the open bake element on older freestanding ranges and Hotpoint units — display lights up, nothing heats, element doesn't glow — followed closely by the F3/F4 RTD sensor fault on the wall-oven side. On gas GE/Café ranges the recurring version is the weak igniter that glows past 90 seconds but never lights the burner.
• We bring the common WB44T10011 / WB44T10010 bake elements, the WB44T10009 broil element, the WB21X5301 RTD sensor and the WB13K21 flat / WB2X9154 round gas igniter to these calls, plus a meter and amp-clamp to confirm the element, sensor circuit or igniter draw on the spot rather than parts-cannoning the ERC board.

For the full GE wall oven module — every fault, part number and code — see GE wall oven repair in Toronto, and for the same fault across all brands the wall oven oven not heating at all guide.