GE Wall Oven Repair in Toronto — Self-clean won't start, or door locked after self-clean

• F9 is the GE self-clean-stuck headline code: it flags a door-lock mechanism / lock-sensing switch fault, and it most often appears the moment the high-heat clean cycle tries to engage the latch. The motorized lock part GE specs here is a door lock motor-and-switch assembly (WB14T10069, or the older-cataloged WB14T10018 for other model fitments) — both carry the lock motor and the position switch together, so the assembly that fits your range is a model/generation question, not a 'motor only vs motor+switch' one. The failure either binds and never drives the latch fully home, or the switch falsely reports 'locked' so the control aborts and freezes the door. We meter the lock switch and watch the motor stroke before condemning the assembly — a binding motor and a lying switch read the same F9 on the display.
• The honest first move on a stuck GE door is not a part — it is GE's own reset path. The latch will not release until the cavity drops below roughly 500F, so a genuinely hot oven is doing exactly what it should. GE documents two resets: disconnect power for 30 seconds and let the control re-poll the lock, or set a fresh 1-2 hour self-clean and wait ~30 minutes for the control to cycle the latch back open. We run those before touching hardware, because a large share of 'stuck after self-clean' calls clear without a single part.
• F2 turns a stuck door into a safety call. GE's F2 over-temperature logic has two branches: it trips around ~640F when the door lock is NOT in its proper position, and around ~915F when the lock IS engaged — the runaway-heat condition during clean. That points at a welded bake relay on the control board (ERC, WB27T-family — WB27T11311 / WB27T10265 / WB27T10406 by model) feeding the element continuously, or a drifted RTD (WB21X5301) feeding a false-high reading that the control never satisfies, so it keeps heating and never lets the latch go. We never reset-and-return an F2 self-clean — uncontrolled heat behind a locked door is a fire risk until the cause is proven.
• F7 is a self-clean-stuck cause people miss: it is a stuck keypad key (the control sees a button held down and beeps). A jammed Clean or Clear/Off key can block the very command that would release the latch, so the door reads as 'stuck' when the latch hardware is fine. We test the touchpad/membrane and the ribbon connection — a persistent F7 means the keypad/touchpad is the fix, kept separate from the lock motor and switch.
• Lock motor that engages but won't fully latch (or won't fully retract) is a mechanical-wear pattern distinct from the F9 switch fault. The clean cycle aborts mid-run or the door stays shut after cool-down because the motorized latch is weak or binding on its travel. When the manual release (holding the doorjamb switch with Clean for ~10s, or sliding the lock rod by hand with the breaker off) frees it but it re-sticks next cycle, the WB14T10069 lock assembly / WB49T10020 latch assembly gets replaced rather than babied.
• GE wall ovens carry the self-clean stress harder than the freestanding ranges: the high-heat cycle is the 'great revealer' that surfaces a weak lock, a tired RTD (WB21X5301), or a thermal switch — which is why 'my GE oven died (or jammed) right after self-clean' is a pattern, not bad luck. We diagnose the whole locked-and-dead picture together: latch hardware, the WB27T control relays, and the sensor circuit, because a clean cycle that ends locked-and-no-heat often fingers more than one of them.

GE self-clean won't start, or door locked after self-clean in Toronto — the local specifics

• The recurring Toronto pattern is the holiday self-clean: someone runs the high-heat cycle the night before a big dinner, the door locks, and it won't release — sometimes a simple cool-down/reset (the door won't unlock until the cavity is below ~500F), sometimes a true F9 lock-switch or a worn lock motor that latched and won't retract. Every November we repeat the same advice on these calls — run self-clean weeks ahead, never the night before — because the lock and thermal parts fail on the one cycle that matters most.
• We roll to GE self-clean-stuck calls carrying the WB14T10069 door lock motor-and-switch assembly (plus the WB49T10020 latch assembly for other model fitments), a WB21X5301 RTD sensor, and the manual-release tooling to free the latch on-site. WB27T-family control boards we confirm by model/serial first, since a welded bake-relay board behind an F2 is the order-ahead part, not a van item.

For the full GE wall oven module — every fault, part number and code — see GE wall oven repair in Toronto, and for the same fault across all brands the wall oven self-clean won't start, or door locked after self-clean guide.