GE Wall Oven Repair in Toronto — Gas oven won't ignite (igniter glows weakly)

• The leading GE gas-wont-ignite call is a weak hot-surface (glow-bar) igniter that still glows orange but no longer opens the valve. On flat-igniter cavities the part is the WB13K21 (AP2020569, PS231280; Norton 501A equivalent, supersedes WB13K0012 / WB13K12 / WB13K10026), and on round-igniter cavities it is the WB2X9154 (AP2014008, PS243425, used on the GE XL44 platform). As the element ages its resistance climbs and current falls, so it glows for 90 seconds or more without lighting the burner. The honest test is amp draw, not the glow: a healthy WB13K21 pulls roughly 3.3-3.6A and is weak at or below ~2.9A, while the round WB2X9154 runs lower at about 2.5-3.0A paired with a 2.8-3.0A valve. We amp-clamp the igniter while it glows and compare it against the model's valve rating rather than one fixed number; a draw below spec confirms the igniter even though it still glows.
• Ordering the wrong igniter shape strands a second truck roll on GE, so we identify the cavity's igniter style before the part order: the FLAT WB13K21 (115V, 3.3-3.6A, ~1.5-inch ceramic bar, 2-prong Molex) and the ROUND WB2X9154 (3-1/2 inch, 2.5-3.0A) are not interchangeable across GE / Hotpoint / Kenmore gas cavities. A flat-style part will not seat in a round-igniter bracket and vice versa, and the round igniter's lower 2.5-3.0A band is matched to a different (2.8-3.0A) safety-valve rating, so a model/serial and visual igniter-shape match comes before we touch a parts order.
• When the igniter glows strong and amp-draws in spec (WB13K21 ~3.3-3.6A) but the burner still never lights, the fault moves off the igniter to the oven gas safety valve. On single-burner cavities that is the standard single-coil WB19K13 (AP2022752); on bake-plus-broil cavities it is the dual-type WB19K14 (AP2022753). The igniter and valve are wired in series: the igniter's current draw is what heats the valve bimetal to open it, so a valve with an open or out-of-spec coil never opens behind even a healthy igniter. On the WB19K14 dual valve there are two coils (one bake, one broil), each reading roughly 1.2 ohms, so we meter both legs and confirm continuity in BOTH before condemning it; the single WB19K13 has one coil to check. GE valves rarely fail compared with weak igniters, so we replace the WB19K13/WB19K14 only after the igniter has tested good on current draw, never as a first guess.
• Delayed ignition with a gas smell on a GE gas oven is a safety call, not a wait-and-see: a weak igniter opens the valve late, so gas pools in the cavity and lights in a small whump (the owner's 'puff' or singed-eyebrow complaint). The amperage tell is the same weak igniter described above (sub-~2.9A on a WB13K21), but the disposition is different: we shut the oven off, advise against using it, and replace the igniter promptly rather than reseating it, because a glow-then-pool-then-ignite pattern is a deflagration risk every preheat.
• An F7 stuck-key fault reads to the owner as 'won't ignite' on GE: the control senses a button held down (a jammed Bake/Clean/Clear-Off key or an unseated touchpad ribbon at the ERC) and refuses to let Bake engage, so the ignition sequence never starts and the gas train is never even called. A power-down for 30-60 seconds clears a false trip; a persistent F7 that survives disconnecting the touchpad ribbon from the control points at the ERC key-detect circuit. We keep this UI fault strictly separate from the WB13K21 / WB2X9154 igniter and WB19K13 / WB19K14 valves, because nothing in the gas train is wrong on a true F7.
• A GE gas RANGE whose surface burners click but won't light is a separate ignition path from the oven bake igniter and is diagnosed on its own. The cooktop spark electrode throws a spark from its tip to the burner; a cracked ceramic, a fouled tip, or moisture/spillover under the cap lets the spark jump to ground so it clicks (often the classic three ticks) without lighting. We clean the electrode tip with isopropyl, dry the head, verify the tip sits ~1/8 inch from the burner and isn't touching metal, and clear the burner ports BEFORE condemning the spark module - a $0 check that clears a large share of single-burner cooktop no-light calls and keeps the oven glow-bar diagnosis distinct.

GE gas oven won't ignite (igniter glows weakly) in Toronto — the local specifics

• The recurring GE-in-Toronto pattern on this fault is the glow-but-no-light weak igniter: homeowners describe an oven that glows orange, takes far longer than it used to, and lately produces a gas smell or a delayed 'whoomp' on preheat - and the amp clamp, not the visible glow, is what confirms the WB13K21 (or round WB2X9154) is below spec. The second recurring pattern is the wrong-shape igniter already installed by a prior DIY/handyman swap, which we catch by matching igniter geometry to the cavity before we order.
• We come to these GE gas-ignition calls carrying BOTH igniter shapes (flat WB13K21 / AP2020569 and round WB2X9154 / AP2014008) plus the safety valves (single WB19K13 and dual-type WB19K14), an amp clamp to test draw under glow, and gas-leak detection for the post-repair check - so the diagnosis-to-fix happens on one visit whether the cavity takes the flat or the round igniter, and the valve is on hand if the igniter tests good.

For the full GE wall oven module — every fault, part number and code — see GE wall oven repair in Toronto, and for the same fault across all brands the wall oven gas oven won't ignite (igniter glows weakly) guide.