GE Wall Oven Repair in Toronto — Broiler not working

• The defining electric broiler-not-working fault on a GE oven is an open-circuit (burned-through) UPPER broil element while bake still heats normally. Because GE runs the bake and broil units on independent control-board relays, a dead broil mode with a good bake oven isolates to that one element, not the control. The GE broil element is WB44T10009 (3410W @ 240V, AP2030995, PS249284, replaces 770548/WB44T10034) - a SEPARATE part from the bake element WB44K10005 (2585W, replaces WB44K10001/824269), so we never quote the bake number for a broiler fault. We pull and meter the broil unit at its two spade terminals at the rear of the cavity top: a visible blister/break in the loop or an open/'OL' reading condemns it. We run broil and bake separately first - broil dead with bake fine = the broil element; BOTH modes dead moves the fault upstream to the relay/control board.
• A broil element that worked, then quit, with a charred/discoloured spade terminal and melted wire end is a connection failure, not just a dead element. The broil unit draws ~3410W, the highest-current connection in the cavity, so heat-cycling loosens the push-on spade, resistance rises, and the terminal burns. There is no clean universal GE 'broil-element receptacle' SKU - the cooktop surface-burner receptacle kits (e.g. WB17X210/WB2X8228) are NOT the oven broil terminal, so we never quote a cooktop part here. The correct fix is to re-terminate the burnt broil lead with a high-temp ceramic wire-nut splice (or a model-specific element block confirmed off the rating plate). We inspect both broil terminals for char before condemning the element; when one is burnt we replace BOTH the WB44T10009 element AND the burnt terminal/lead, because a new element pushed onto a charred connection just re-burns.
• An F3 (open/shorted oven temperature sensor) or F2 (over-temperature) that arrives with a broiler complaint is the RTD circuit, not the element. GE locates the oven temperature sensor WB21X5301 (AP2023670, PS236043) on the back cavity wall right NEXT to the broiler, so a broil-degraded harness or a drifted probe drops the control into a heat-killing fault. The probe reads ~1100 ohms at room temperature; GE's published acceptable range is roughly 1030-1150 ohms at room temp, and as a field rule we replace a probe that meters materially off ~1100 ohms. We meter the sensor cold and check its connector resistance (more than ~10 ohms at the plug points to the control) before naming a board - a loose sensor plug throws the same F3/F2 and the same no-broil without the probe actually being bad.
• When BOTH broil and bake are dead (not broil alone), the fault moves off the element/igniter and onto the GE relay/electronic range control - a failed-open broil relay on a WB27-prefix board (e.g. WB27T10821 / WB27X611) won't close to feed the broil element, so a known-good WB44T10009 still won't fire and the meter shows no voltage at its legs during a broil call. GE's documented weak point here is poor relay solder plus the high broil current burning the relay contacts and the PC-board foils. We confirm 240V reaches the element block and that the element and WB21X5301 sensor test good before quoting the model-coded board - we never condemn the costly WB27 control until the cheaper broil element and sensor are cleared.
• An F7 or F0 key/keypad code that locks out the broil selection is a shorted membrane key, not a heat-circuit part. On GE membrane-keypad ovens a stuck or shorted broil/start pad reports F7 (and the keypad-disconnect shifts it to F0), so the oven refuses to enter broil even with a perfect element. The field isolation is GE's own ribbon-cable test: push CLEAR/OFF, disconnect the keypad ribbon from the control and wait at least 32 seconds - if the code recurs the control is at fault, if it clears the keypad/membrane is the part. We run that test before ordering either the keypad or the WB27 control, because guessing here means a wrong board.
• On a GAS GE oven the broiler-not-working signature is a weak round-style broil igniter that still glows but no longer pulls enough current to open the broil safety valve. GE's oven/broiler igniter is the round-style WB2X9154 (AP2014008, PS243425), distinct from the flat-style BAKE igniter WB13K21 (AP2020569) - so for a broiler-only no-light we order the broil igniter, not the bake part. A healthy round igniter draws roughly 2.5-3.0A (it needs about 2.8-3.0A to open the safety valve); as the silicon carbide ages it goes resistive and glows dull orange/red so the homeowner thinks it works, but a low-amp igniter never opens the valve. We apply GE's 90-second rule: if the broil igniter glows more than ~90 seconds without the burner lighting it is too weak and is replaced; a strong igniter glows yellow-to-white and lights within ~60 seconds.
• No glow at all on a gas GE broil igniter (dead, not weak) is the open-circuit case: the WB2X9154 has cracked or burned through, so the broil safety-valve circuit never energizes and there is no glow and no gas to the broiler. We meter the igniter for continuity at its plug - an open/'OL' reading condemns it outright, and a hairline crack in the silicon carbide reads open even when the element looks intact, so we trust the meter over the eye. If the igniter is proven to pull a healthy ~2.8-3.0A on a clamp meter and the broiler STILL won't light, the fault moves to the broil safety valve, not the igniter - we never parts-cannon the valve before clearing the cheaper WB2X9154.

GE broiler not working in Toronto — the local specifics

• The recurring GE-in-Toronto pattern for broiler-not-working is the open upper broil element with a perfectly good bake oven - a one-mode-dead call that we isolate at the cavity before touching the control. The frequent companion finding is a charred broil-element terminal: the high broil current burns the rear spade connection in older GTA built-ins, so an element that was 'just replaced' fails again because the burnt lead was never re-terminated. On gas GE ranges the seasonal pattern is the slow-dying round-style broil igniter that glows but won't pull the valve open. We do not publish job counts - this is the qualitative pattern, not a tally.
• We carry to these GE broiler calls the WB44T10009 broil element, the WB44K10005 bake element, the WB21X5301 oven temperature sensor and high-temp ceramic wire-nut splice kits for re-terminating a charred element lead, plus the gas round-style WB2X9154 broil igniter and the flat-style WB13K21 bake igniter - so the common electric and gas broiler fixes are done on the first visit. The model-coded WB27-prefix relay/ERC board is the one item we confirm off the plate and order or board-repair rather than carry blind.

For the full GE wall oven module — every fault, part number and code — see GE wall oven repair in Toronto, and for the same fault across all brands the wall oven broiler not working guide.