Dryer Won't start / no power — Causes, Fixes & Repair Costs

Won't start / no power: You press start and nothing happens — no lights, a hum with no drum motion, or the dryer is completely dead.

Also described as: dead, won't turn on, no power, no lights, hums but won't start, nothing happens when I press start

Likely causes

1. Open thermal fuse cutting all power to the controls (usually a clogged vent overheated it) (Most common)
2. Failed door switch — the dryer can't tell the door is shut (Common)
3. Faulty start switch or push-to-start button (Common)
4. No power to the unit — a tripped or half-failed double-pole breaker, a lost control-side 240V leg, or a burnt line cord / outlet (when the control-side leg is gone the dryer goes fully dark) (Occasional)
5. Failed main control board (Rare)

How we diagnose it — in order

1. Confirm the power supply at the wall: make sure the cord is fully seated, then fully cycle the dryer's double-pole breaker OFF then ON (both tied handles). A 'half-tripped' breaker is the classic dead/hum cause -- it can look ON while one of the two hot legs is open, which leaves an electric dryer with lights but a hum and no drum motion. If it trips again on reset, stop and call an electrician.
2. Verify voltage at the outlet (technician step): with a meter on the 240V receptacle, confirm both hot legs are live -- roughly 120V each leg to neutral/ground and about 240V across the two hot terminals. Missing one leg is a house-wiring/outlet fault, not the dryer; inspect the plug, cord, and outlet for burn marks while you're there.
3. Check the door switch: shut the door firmly (many won't start if not fully latched), then with the door open press the switch lever -- if the drum light doesn't go out, the door switch is failing. Confirm by testing it for continuity, actuated vs not, and replace if it doesn't switch.
4. Test the thermal fuse for continuity (most common failed PART on a no-start): unplug the dryer, find the fuse on the blower housing or heat duct, and meter it -- no continuity means it's blown and needs replacing. A blown thermal fuse is almost always caused by a clogged vent, so clear the exhaust vent/lint duct or it will blow again.
5. Test the push-to-start switch for continuity while pressed: a dryer that's getting power and has good door/fuse circuits but stays silent (no hum) when you press start often has a dead start switch. Replace it if it shows no continuity when actuated.
6. Last, condemn the timer or main control board: only after power, door switch, thermal fuse, and start switch all test good, suspect the control. Confirm the board is getting its input voltage but not sending the motor run signal before replacing this expensive part -- it's the least common cause.

Time on site

1–1.5 hours

Visits

Usually 1

Typical all-in

$250–$390

Repair vs. replace

Almost always worth repairing — fuse, door and start switches are inexpensive; weigh a control board against a 12+ yr unit.

Error codes

PF (Whirlpool/Maytag — power failure interrupted the cycle), F01 (Whirlpool/Maytag — main control board failure), dE (Samsung — door error, won't start), CL (LG — Control Lock / Child Lock engaged, blocks the start button)

Related: Drum not spinning · Not heating · Making noise (squeaking, grinding, thumping)