Why is my dryer not heating?
Most common cause on a dryer in the GTA: blown thermal fuse — usually from a clogged vent overheating. A typical repair runs $250–$390 all-in, including the $149.95 diagnostic, credited 100% toward your repair. No immediate risk if you stop using it, but a clogged vent is a fire hazard — book promptly. Book at convenience
Prices in CAD for the GTA; typical ranges — your exact quote is confirmed on-site before any work. Updated .
Most dryer faults in the GTA come down to a handful of parts — and the majority are worth repairing rather than replacing a 10–13 years appliance. Anthony is a Red Seal certified technician who carries the common dryer parts on the van, so most the GTA jobs are diagnosed and fixed in a single visit.
Dryer repair costs in the GTA
Honest, all-in ranges for common jobs. Every visit starts with a flat $149.95 diagnostic that is credited 100% toward your repair — so you never pay it twice.
| Problem | Parts | Labour | All-in |
|---|---|---|---|
| Not heating | $20–$140 | $120–$190 | $250–$390 |
| Diagnostic (credited to the repair) | $149.95 |
Ranges are estimates for common the GTA jobs; your exact quote is confirmed on-site before any work begins. Prices in CAD, updated .
How your repair works
Four simple steps, no surprises.
Book
Call or request a callback. Same-day & next-day appointments available.
Diagnose
A flat $149.95 diagnostic pinpoints the real fault.
Approve
You get an upfront all-in quote first — diagnostic credited 100% toward your repair.
Repaired
Fixed with OEM parts, backed by a 90-day warranty.
Common Dryer problems & what we check
Tap any problem for the likely causes, what is safe to check yourself, and what it costs.
Not heating
Not heating: The drum turns but the air is cold and clothes stay damp after a full cycle.
Also described as: no heat, clothes still wet, runs but cold
Likely causes
- Blown thermal fuse — usually from a clogged vent overheating (Most common)
- Failed heating element (Common)
- Faulty thermostat or thermistor (Common)
- Gas models: failed igniter or gas-valve coils (Occasional (gas))
✔ Safe to check yourself
- Clean the lint filter and check the exterior vent flap opens — a blocked vent is the #1 root cause and trips the fuse.
- Confirm the dryer isn't on an air-only / eco setting.
✖ Leave to a technician
- Heating element, thermal fuse and any gas component are technician jobs (electrical / gas safety).
Related: Drum not spinning · Loud or squealing
Dryer not heating by brand
Brand-specific patterns we see
- Whirlpool: Whirlpool-built dryers (incl. Maytag/Amana/Inglis badges and Kenmore 110.) split into the classic 29" rear-fuse platform — where a blown thermal fuse from a clogged vent is THE no-heat story — and the 27" front-load (Duet-era) platform, where the heavy heating element and F01 board faults lead.
- Samsung: Samsung dryers have one part every GTA tech knows by number: the DC47-00019A heating element. Its coil can sag and short to the housing — which either kills heat or, nastier, keeps heating uncontrolled — so we check element-to-case continuity on every Samsung heat call, then the vent that overheated it.
- LG: LG dryers self-report the #1 dryer problem: Flow Sense codes d80/d90/d95 literally display what percentage of the exhaust path is blocked. Most "broken LG dryer" calls in older GTA housing end at the HOUSE vent run, not the machine — and we say so, because clearing the vent is cheaper than the parts people expect.
- Maytag: Maytag dryers are an era story: post-2007 units are rebadged Whirlpool 29" rear-fuse and 27" Duet-platform machines (identical fuse/element/kit numbers to Whirlpool), while legacy Newton-built Maytags (DE/MDE "Halo of Heat", Performa, Neptune) are a separate, drying-up parts book. The serial tag decides which machine we are actually fixing, but on the modern majority a blown thermal fuse cooked by a clogged vent is THE no-heat story.
- Amana: Whirlpool-built dryers (incl. Maytag/Amana/Inglis badges and Kenmore 110.) split into the classic 29" rear-fuse platform — where a blown thermal fuse from a clogged vent is THE no-heat story — and the 27" front-load (Duet-era) platform, where the heavy heating element and F01 board faults lead.
- Frigidaire: On Frigidaire/Affinity dryers the no-heat call usually ends at code E64 — open heating element — a known failure on this platform, with the element a stocked, economical fix. The rest of the profile is conventional: belts, rollers, dryness-control sensing.
- Kenmore: Kenmore is a Sears RETAIL BADGE, not a manufacturer — the real maker is decoded from the FIRST 3 DIGITS of the model number on the door/cabinet tag. There are no "Kenmore" part numbers: the parts ARE the donor maker's parts. The dominant Kenmore dryer donors are 110.=Whirlpool-built (29" rear-fuse + 27" Duet platforms — blown thermal fuse from a clogged vent is THE no-heat story), 796.=LG-built (Flow Sense d80/d90/d95 vent codes), and 417.=Frigidaire/Electrolux-built (the Kenmore Elite "417 series" — E64 open-heater is the signature). We decode the FULL model and serial before the visit so the right donor van kit is on board, not a second trip.
- Inglis: Whirlpool-built dryers (incl. Maytag/Amana/Inglis badges and Kenmore 110.) split into the classic 29" rear-fuse platform — where a blown thermal fuse from a clogged vent is THE no-heat story — and the 27" front-load (Duet-era) platform, where the heavy heating element and F01 board faults lead.
- Electrolux: Electrolux-branded dryers (EFME/ELFE 8-series, the Perfect Steam / Luxury-Care line) wear Frigidaire's element-and-belt mechanicals underneath and carry the same E6x heater/sensor code family Frigidaire uses on the shared North-American control platform (a code set with roots in Electrolux's European AEG/Zanussi ENV-board family) — the E-codes are NOT what separates the two brands. E64 (heater open circuit) leads, but Perfect Steam plumbing and the moisture-sensing board add steam-valve and predictive-dry faults Frigidaire units simply do not have.
- Bosch: Bosch 24" ventless dryers — condensation WTG86 (badged 800 Series in NA: WTG86400UC/WTG86402UC) and heat-pump 500/800 (WTW87/WQB245) — are condo machines with no duct: heat is recycled through a condenser/heat-pump loop. The faults that matter are maintenance-shaped — clogged condenser/fluff paths, blocked condensate pumps and drains, and NTC sensor drift — so "takes forever" or "won't heat" is usually airflow/drainage inside the machine, not a dead heater. The display speaks in E:0x service codes (filter/drain) with F-codes flagging the sealed heating circuit on heat-pump models.
- Miele: Miele T1 heat-pump dryers are sealed-loop, ventless, factory-parts machines built around fine-lint management: the dominant service story is airflow/condensate maintenance (plinth-foam and fluff filters clogging, condensate pump/drain stalling) that shows up as long cycles or F-code stops, not a failed heater. Wear parts (drive belt, fluff/plinth filters, NTC sensor, door catch) are servicer-fixable; sealed heat-pump loop and main-board faults belong to the Miele factory network. Parts route factory-direct through Miele Canada by serial, so we quote honest lead times either way.
Brand-specific dryer repair
Get your dryer fixed — not heating repair near you
We diagnose and repair dryer not heating across the GTA, same-day where possible, with the flat $149.95 diagnostic credited 100% toward your repair.
Why homeowners across the GTA call us
Repairs are carried out by Anthony, a Red Seal interprovincial journeyman who is 313A Licensed, TSSA Certified, ODP Certified — backed by $2,000,000+ general liability insurance and a 90-day workmanship warranty on every job.
Red Seal technician
Work done by Anthony, a certified journeyman — not a rotating subcontractor.
Licensed & gas-certified
313A refrigeration licence and TSSA gas certification for safe, code-correct repairs.
$2,000,000+ insured
Fully insured for general liability, so your home is protected during the repair.
90-day warranty
Parts and workmanship are warrantied — if it's not right, we come back.
OEM parts on the van
Common parts are stocked, so most jobs are completed on the first visit.
Upfront pricing
A flat $149.95 diagnostic, credited 100% toward your repair, and a quote before any work.
What our credentials mean for you
- Red Seal Certified
- The interprovincial standard for skilled trades — a journeyman who passed the national appliance-service exam.
- 313A Licensed
- Ontario's refrigeration & air-conditioning systems mechanic licence — legally required to work on sealed cooling systems.
- TSSA Certified
- Technical Standards & Safety Authority gas certification — qualified to work safely on gas appliances.
- ODP Certified
- Ozone Depletion Prevention certification — licensed to handle refrigerants responsibly and to code.
Repair or replace your dryer?
A simple rule of thumb: if the repair costs more than half the price of a comparable new unit and the appliance is near the end of its life, replacement may make more sense.
A dryer typically lasts – and costs $800–$1,500 to replace — so most faults under about $450 are worth fixing. We'll always tell you honestly when a repair isn't worth your money.
Keep your dryer running
Simple habits that prevent the most common the GTA repairs.
- Clean the lint filter before every load.
- Have the full vent run (wall to outside) cleared once a year — the top fire-prevention step.
- Don't overload the drum; it accelerates roller and belt wear.
- Check the exterior vent flap opens freely and isn't blocked by lint or snow.
More appliance repair in the GTA
Other appliances
Nearby cities
Frequently asked questions
Why is my dryer not heating?
Do you charge for the diagnostic?
How soon can you come out?
Are you licensed and insured?
Do you use genuine parts?
Need your dryer fixed in the GTA?
Same-day & next-day appointments available. Flat $149.95 diagnostic, credited 100% toward your repair, and a 90-day warranty on every repair.
Call (647) 490-7878