LG Dryer Repair in Toronto — Not drying (clothes still damp)

• A dirty or failed moisture sensor is the signature LG "runs a full cycle but clothes come out damp" call -- the part is the LG 6500EL3001A moisture sensor bar (genuine LG OEM; lgparts.com, RepairClinic, PartSelect PS3529161), with the high-end DLEX line (DLEX7700, DLEX8000, DLEX8500, DLEX9000 series) using the EBD50964602 sensor instead -- a part lgparts.com catalogs as the moisture/humidity sensor bar, though several third-party distributors list the same number as a 'pressure sensor,' so we confirm the exact part against the model's LG parts diagram by serial before quoting. The two metal bars sit at the front of the drum by the lint-filter housing and the dryer ends Sensor Dry when clothes bridge them as 'dry.' Fabric-softener and dryer-sheet film coats the bars and fakes a 'dry' reading, so the machine shuts off early with wet laundry -- LG's own How to Clean the Humidity Sensor page has you wipe the bars before condemning anything. We clean the bars with alcohol and run a Sensor Dry test load first; only if readings stay erratic do we quote the 6500EL3001A (or EBD50964602 by model), because a sub-$25 sensor mimics a far pricier heat fault on this platform.
• When the bars are clean but the sensor signal still never reaches the board, the fault is the moisture-sensor wire harness -- LG 6631EL3003B (AP4438546; genuine LG OEM, lgparts.com / RepairClinic / AppliancePartsPros / iFixit). A chafed, corroded or heat-damaged harness between the drum-front sensor and the control breaks the moisture circuit so the dryer either short-cycles to damp or over-runs, even with a brand-new sensor bar fitted. We ohm the harness end-to-end and inspect the spade connectors for scorch before deciding between the 6631EL3003B harness and the 6500EL3001A bar, since swapping the sensor alone leaves a broken harness un-fixed and the complaint comes straight back.
• Flow Sense duct-restriction codes are the LG 'takes two cycles to dry' complaint that is really a vent job, not a part. LG's official error list groups d75/d80/d90/d95 as an exhaust duct clogged between the dryer and the outside hood, and LG's percentage page publishes d90 = 90% blockage (it cools down and stops to protect itself) and d95 = 95% (immediate cool-down); d80 is the earlier derate that makes the machine run long and finish damp. The restriction is usually lint packed below the lint screen, a crushed foil transition hose, or a blocked exterior hood -- and a chronic restriction is exactly what cooks the 6931EL3003D thermal fuse and trips the high-limit, turning a slow-dry into a no-heat. We treat d-codes as a duct diagnosis first because clearing the vent is cheaper than the parts owners brace for, and we don't claim LG officially prints an '80%' figure since LG's percentage page only names 90%/95%.
• A clogged or softener-blinded lint screen is the cheapest real not-drying cause and needs no parts: a screen caked with invisible fabric-softener film (or one packed with lint each load) chokes airflow so the heated air can't carry moisture out, clothes finish warm-but-damp, and the dryer can even start derating toward a d-code. LG service guidance has owners wash a film-coated screen in warm soapy water and dry it fully. We check the screen and the lint chute below it before opening any panel, because restored airflow alone fixes a large share of 'won't dry' calls on this brand.
• A weak heater stack -- enough heat to feel warm, not enough to dry -- presents as not-drying rather than dead-cold no-heat: a partially-grounded or aging LG 5301EL1001J heating element assembly (240V/5400W, carries the on-bracket 6931EL3001F hi-limit and an integral thermal fuse; supersedes 5301EL1001E/G/H) can make low heat while still passing a casual touch test. We ring the element terminal-to-terminal AND to its metal housing, because a grounded element heats any time the drum runs and produces lukewarm, slow drying. A truly open element reads infinity and gives no heat at all -- the not-drying-but-warm pattern is the one that points at a weak/grounded element versus an upstream open safety.
• Thermistor drift makes LG end the heat cycle early so clothes finish damp -- the 6323EL2001B sensor (~10kohm at room temperature) reports exhaust/drum temperature to the control, and a sensor reading falsely high tells the board it's hotter than it is, so it cuts heat and the load stays wet. Per LG's error list tE1/tE3 flag an open/unplugged thermistor, tE2 a thermistor fault in cold conditions (common on steam cycles -- LG's documented remedy is to run the dryer empty first to warm it), and tE4 reads out of range. We ohm the 6323EL2001B against LG's spec and try LG's factory reset on a tE1/tE3 before quoting, since a low-cost thermistor mimics a heater fault on this platform.
• Heat-pump compact condo models (DLHC Dual Inverter HeatPump, e.g. DLHC1455W) are a separate not-drying story and a specialist triage -- these are ventless, so there is no exhaust duct and no d-code to read, and the heat comes from a refrigerant compressor loop that LG caps around 130F. On these units 'gets warm but won't dry' is most often a clogged condenser or the second (lower) lint filter restricting the closed-loop airflow, or frost/blockage on the evaporator coil that drops capacity; when the condenser-side sensors detect a restriction the compressor shuts off early and the load stays damp. We clean the condenser and both lint filters, check the evaporator for frost, and triage a DLHC by model/serial before quoting, because the vented DLE moisture-sensor and heater stock (6500EL3001A, 5301EL1001J, 6323EL2001B) does NOT fit these compacts.

LG not drying (clothes still damp) in Toronto — the local specifics

• The recurring Toronto LG not-drying pattern is the 'clothes still damp at the buzzer' call that turns out to be a softener-filmed moisture sensor or a lint-choked HOUSE vent rather than a dead heater -- we routinely clean the 6500EL3001A (or EBD50964602 on the high-end DLEX line) sensor bars and clear a lint-packed basement duct or screened exterior hood, and a large share of these resolve with cleaning and a vent clearance before any heat-stack part is needed. The second recurring pattern is a Flow Sense d80/d90/d95 after a reno or in a stacked condo closet where the vent run is over-length or crushed.
• We carry to these calls the 6500EL3001A moisture sensor bar and the EBD50964602 sensor for the high-end DLEX line, the 6631EL3003B sensor harness, the 6323EL2001B thermistor, and the model-coded 5301EL1001J heater assembly with its integral 6931EL3001F high-limit and 6931EL3003D thermal fuse -- plus vent-clearing tools, because on this brand the not-drying fix is as often a cleared duct as a swapped part.

For the full LG dryer module — every fault, part number and code — see LG dryer repair in Toronto, and for the same fault across all brands the dryer not drying (clothes still damp) guide.