Dacor Stove Repair in Toronto — Surface element stuck on high

• On a Dacor dual-fuel range (ER/HDPR/DOP) the cooktop is gas but the oven cavity is ELECTRIC, so a true "element stuck on full heat" almost always traces to a welded-closed bake or broil relay on the oven relay control board, not the element itself. The contacts fuse shut, so the heat circuit stays energized regardless of what the ERC commands and the cavity runs away past setpoint. On the Samsung-era relay-board platform the board is Dacor 101559-C, superseded to DE81-09742A; a stuck-on relay throws a U43 (upper oven) or L43 (lower oven) relay-board fault. Per ApplianceBoards/Dacor service notes the documented S19-connection check almost never finds it — a welded relay is a board replacement, and a 60-second breaker-off reset that comes right back confirms the board, not a connector.
• A cavity that overshoots and won't cut heat will trip the control into an F2 (runaway / heating-mode high temperature) or a U22 (over-temp) lockout — the ERC's own runaway protection latching off a heat circuit it can no longer switch off. Per PartSelect/Dacor literature an F2/U22 points at exactly three things: a stuck-closed relay on the oven control, a shorted oven sensor, or a short in the heating circuit. We treat F2/U22 as a runaway/fire condition — never reset-and-return — and prove a welded relay (101559-C / DE81-09742A) against a shorted RTD on a meter before naming the board.
• A shorted oven temperature sensor (RTD) makes the oven drive heat to the rail even though the relays are healthy: the probe reads about 1080 ohms at room temperature, and a shorted sensor reads abnormally LOW resistance, so the ERC thinks the cavity is cold and holds the element on, overshooting toward stuck-on-high. The sensor is DE81-07677A (replaces 62593, AP3393577). A short typically latches F3 (shorted RTD) and can roll into F2/U22 once the cavity actually overheats. We meter the probe and check its harness plug at the control before condemning any board — a shorted RTD is a far cheaper fix than the relay board it mimics.
• Broil element runs (or stays hot) during a BAKE call, or broil won't shut off after the cycle ends: that isolates a welded broil relay on the relay board rather than a bad element. The dual-fuel broil element is the 3000W Dacor 82817, superseded on the Samsung platform to DE81-06974A. There is no normal path that heats one mode while the other is selected, so a broil element energized out of mode means the broil relay contacts fused closed — we confirm the element passes continuity and is grounded clean, then condemn the relay board (101559-C / DE81-09742A), not the heating element.
• A bake element that has shorted internally to its own sheath/chassis can backfeed the cavity and read as constant high heat with arcing or a tripping breaker. The 30-inch bake element is Dacor 62637 (DE81-06277A / AP3393456 / 876995-00, 240V). A coil that has grounded to the oven liner energizes through the ground path even when the relay opens, so the element "stays on" — we meter the element terminal-to-terminal AND terminal-to-chassis (a healthy element shows no continuity to ground) before chasing the control, because a grounded element will also kill any new relay board dropped onto it.
• Both heat circuits behaving abnormally right after a self-clean cycle: the pyrolytic run drives the cavity to roughly 800F and can either fuse a relay closed under the thermal/electrical stress or trip Dacor's resettable thermal high-limit. On Renaissance/Heritage units there's a small red reset button on the high-limit switch behind the rear/electronics panel (breaker off first). We check whether the limit tripped and WHY before resetting — restoring a heat circuit that overheated because a relay welded closed just lets it run away again and re-trip.
• On the Samsung-era Dacor INDUCTION platform (DTI30/DTI36 standalone cooktops and the induction-range models) a zone that stays at full power and won't throttle down points at the zone's inverter PCB, not the glass or coil — the IGBT power-switching stage on that board lost regulation and holds the field at max. The right-side inverter is DG92-01036A (AP6245007) and the left-side is DG92-01035A. We confirm the touch panel is commanding a lower level while the zone stays hot (ruling out a stuck touch key on the control/touch PCB), then meter that side's inverter before condemning an order-only board — a runaway zone driven by a stuck capacitive key is a touch-PCB fault, not an inverter.

Dacor surface element stuck on high in Toronto — the local specifics

• On a Dacor element-stuck-on-high call in Toronto we treat it as a runaway/safety condition first — kill the dedicated 240V circuit and meter before quoting. On the bench a dual-fuel range or wall oven that overshoots setpoint typically latches an F2 / U22 over-temp or a U43 / L43 relay-board fault, and the cause lands on a welded relay on the 101559-C / DE81-09742A oven relay board more often than on the element itself, with a shorted RTD (DE81-07677A) the cheaper look-alike to rule out first. Self-clean / pyrolytic runs are a known trigger because the ~800F cycle stresses the relay contacts and the resettable high-limit, so a post-clean failure gets checked for both.
• We roll to these Toronto calls with a meter and the diagnostic-mode steps to read the sensor (about 1080 ohms at room temperature) and prove welded-relay vs shorted-RTD on the spot. We carry the DE81-07677A RTD sensor (the cheap, common fix) to attempt a same-visit close, and we stage the 101559-C / DE81-09742A relay control board and the matching 62637 bake / DE81-06974A broil element by the unit's model/serial through the authorized channel for the follow-up when the board is the confirmed runaway cause.

For the full Dacor stove module — every fault, part number and code — see Dacor stove repair in Toronto, and for the same fault across all brands the stove surface element stuck on high guide.