Why is my electric stove element not heating?
Most common cause on a stove in the GTA: burned-out surface element (coil or radiant) (electric-only). A typical repair runs $150–$350 all-in, including the $149.95 diagnostic, credited 100% toward your repair. No safety risk with the element off; cook on the others and book at your convenience. Book at convenience
Prices in CAD for the GTA; typical ranges — your exact quote is confirmed on-site before any work. Updated .
Most stove faults in the GTA come down to a handful of parts — and the majority are worth repairing rather than replacing an appliance that typically lasts 13–15 years. Anthony is a Red Seal certified technician who carries the common stove parts on the van, so most jobs in the GTA are diagnosed and fixed in a single visit.
Stove repair costs in the GTA
Honest, all-in ranges for common jobs. Every visit starts with a flat $149.95 diagnostic that is credited 100% toward your repair — so you never pay it twice.
| Problem | Parts | Labour | All-in |
|---|---|---|---|
| Electric element not heating | $25–$160 | $120–$190 | $150–$350 |
| Diagnostic (credited to the repair) | $149.95 |
Ranges are estimates for common jobs in the GTA; your exact quote is confirmed on-site before any work begins. Prices in CAD, updated .
How your repair works
Four simple steps, no surprises.
Book
Call or request a callback. Same-day & next-day appointments available.
Diagnose
A flat $149.95 diagnostic pinpoints the real fault.
Approve
You get an upfront all-in quote first — diagnostic credited 100% toward your repair.
Repaired
Fixed with OEM parts, backed by a 90-day warranty.
Common Stove problems & what we check
Tap any problem for the likely causes, what is safe to check yourself, and what it costs.
Electric element not heating$150–$350
Electric element not heating: One surface element stays cold while others work — the indicator light may glow but the element never heats (electric coil or smooth-top radiant only).
Also described as: coil not getting hot, burner cold, element dead, radiant element no heat
Likely causes
- Burned-out surface element (coil or radiant) (electric-only) (Most common)
- Failed surface-element receptacle / "plug-in" block on coil ranges, often heat-damaged (electric-only) (Common)
- Failed infinite switch (the burner control) not sending power to the element (electric-only) (Common)
- Broken wiring or a burnt terminal feeding the element (electric-only) (Occasional)
- Failed control board or relay on glass-top models (electric-only) (Occasional)
How we diagnose it — in order
- Swap-test first (free, rules out the element fast): on a coil top, pull the cold element and plug it into a known-good working position; if it now heats, the element is fine and the fault is in that burner's receptacle or switch. On a smooth top, instead confirm the cold burner is set to the same heat level and the surface-lock/control-lock is off before opening anything.
- Cut power and inspect for the obvious burn damage: switch off the breaker (range is 240V), then lift the coil or remove the smooth-top glass/element and look at the element terminals and the receptacle (socket) it plugs into. Scorched, pitted, blackened or melted contacts on the receptacle are the most common real-world cause of one dead burner -- replace the receptacle if the contacts are burnt.
- Continuity-test the heating element across its two terminals with a multimeter (power off, element unplugged). A good element reads a low resistance in roughly the 20-60 ohm range depending on size; an open / OL reading means the element is dead -- replace it.
- Test the receptacle for power delivery: with the element confirmed good, reinstall it, restore power, and verify the receptacle is actually feeding voltage on that burner (or back-probe the receptacle terminals). No voltage at a good-looking receptacle points upstream to the switch or wiring; burnt terminals point to the receptacle itself.
- Test the infinite (burner) switch for continuity: power off, identify the switch for that burner, and with the knob ON check continuity from the line terminals (L1/L2) to the heater terminals (H1/H2) -- it should make a circuit ON and break it OFF. No continuity in the ON position condemns the infinite switch; replace it.
- If element, receptacle and switch all test good, trace the wiring as the last step: inspect the harness from switch to receptacle for browned/melted insulation or a loose terminal screw (a loose connection discolors insulation before it fails), and repair or re-terminate the affected wire.
✔ Safe to check yourself
- On a coil range, swap a known-good coil into the dead position — if it heats, the original coil is bad; if it still won't heat, suspect the receptacle or switch.
- Reseat the coil firmly into its receptacle; a loose plug-in is a common cause.
- Confirm the element isn't blistered, cracked, or showing a burnt spot.
✖ Leave to a technician
- Receptacle, infinite-switch, and wiring repairs run on 240V — technician job (shock/arc-flash risk).
- On glass smooth-tops, removing the cooktop to reach radiant elements and the control board is a technician job.
Related: Surface element stuck on high · Induction element not working / fault code · Knob not turning or igniting
Ready to get it fixed?
Call now — (647) 490-7878 90-day warranty · flat $149.95 diagnostic credited 100% toward your repairStove electric element not heating by brand
Brand-specific patterns we see
- Kenmore: A Kenmore range is another maker's range in a Sears badge -- and the first 3 digits of the model number decode whose. The dominant donors: 790. and 970. = Frigidaire/WCI-built (EOC F-code family: F10 runaway, F30/F31 sensor), 110. and 665. = Whirlpool-built (F1/F2/F3/F5 family), 362. and 363. = GE-built (F0/F1/F2/F3/F7/F9 family), 911. = Roper. We decode the FULL model and serial off the tag BEFORE the visit so the van carries the real maker's element, sensor and control -- Kenmore parts ARE the donor's parts (e.g. the 790. RTD is Frigidaire 316233902, the 110. bake element is Whirlpool WPW10276482), never a 'Kenmore' number.
- KitchenAid: KitchenAid ranges are the premium face of the Whirlpool cooking platform — Even-Heat True Convection, dual-fuel (KSDB) and commercial-style (KFDC) trims — running Whirlpool-platform hardware (WPW10276482 bake element, WPW10131825 RTD sensor, WP8523793 surface spark electrodes, 12400035 flat oven igniter on gas) under KitchenAid's paired F-E fault language; the added load over a base Whirlpool is the convection circuit (W11414552 fan motor) and the dual-fuel gas-top/electric-oven split.
Brand-specific stove repair
Get your stove fixed — electric element not heating repair near you
We diagnose and repair stove electric element not heating across the GTA, same-day where possible, with the flat $149.95 diagnostic credited 100% toward your repair.
Why homeowners across the GTA call us
Every repair is led by Anthony, a Red Seal interprovincial journeyman who is 313A Licensed, TSSA Certified, ODP Certified, with his team working under his direct leadership — backed by $2,000,000+ general liability insurance and a 90-day workmanship warranty on every job.
Red Seal-led team
Every job is overseen by Anthony, a certified journeyman, and handled by his own trusted team.
Licensed & gas-certified
313A refrigeration licence and TSSA gas certification for safe, code-correct repairs.
$2,000,000+ insured
Fully insured for general liability, so your home is protected during the repair.
90-day warranty
Parts and workmanship are warrantied — if it's not right, we come back.
OEM parts on the van
Common parts are stocked, so most jobs are completed on the first visit.
Upfront pricing
A flat $149.95 diagnostic, credited 100% toward your repair, and a quote before any work.
What our credentials mean for you
- Red Seal Certified
- The interprovincial standard for skilled trades — a journeyman who passed the national appliance-service exam.
- 313A Licensed
- Ontario's refrigeration & air-conditioning systems mechanic licence — legally required to work on sealed cooling systems.
- TSSA Certified
- Technical Standards & Safety Authority gas certification — qualified to work safely on gas appliances.
- ODP Certified
- Ozone Depletion Prevention certification — licensed to handle refrigerants responsibly and to code.
Repair or replace your stove?
A simple rule of thumb: if the repair costs more than half the price of a comparable new unit and the appliance is near the end of its life, replacement may make more sense.
A stove typically lasts – and costs $1,200–$2,500 to replace — so most faults under about $450 are worth fixing. We'll always tell you honestly when a repair isn't worth your money.
Keep your stove running
Simple habits that prevent the most common the GTA repairs.
- Wipe up boil-overs and spills once the burners or elements have cooled — trapped food clogs gas ports and damages coil receptacles.
- On gas ranges, keep the burner ports and igniter electrodes clean with a pin and a stiff brush so the flame stays crisp and blue.
- Dry the cooktop fully after cleaning and reseat the burner caps and heads squarely — wet or crooked caps cause most no-light and constant-click problems.
- On coil ranges, lift the coils to clean underneath and check the receptacles for heat damage rather than dragging cookware across them.
- On smooth-top and induction cooktops, use flat-bottom cookware (magnetic/ferrous for induction) and a glass-cooktop cleaner — avoid abrasives that scratch the glass.
- Keep the under-cooktop vents and cooling-fan intakes clear on induction units so the power boards don't overheat.
- Replace a cracked or loose control knob early, before the D-shaft rounds off.
- Have a TSSA-certified technician check the burner flames, air-shutter adjustment, and gas connections periodically — keep a working carbon-monoxide alarm in the kitchen area.
More appliance repair in the GTA
Other appliances
Nearby cities
Frequently asked questions
Why is my electric stove element not heating?
Do you charge for the diagnostic?
How soon can you come out?
Are you licensed and insured?
Do you use genuine parts?
Need your stove fixed in the GTA?
Same-day & next-day appointments available. Flat $149.95 diagnostic, credited 100% toward your repair, and a 90-day warranty on every repair.
Call (647) 490-7878