Whirlpool Wall Oven Repair in Toronto — Broiler not working

• The single most diagnostic Whirlpool broiler-not-working signature on an ELECTRIC range or wall oven is "bake works, broil is dead": the roof broil element has gone open-circuit while the hidden lower bake element WPW10276482 (PS11751723, AP6018421; a 3600W bake element) still heats normally, because each runs on an independent 240V relay leg. On Whirlpool/Maytag/Amana ranges and wall ovens the roof broil element is WP9760774 (AP6014070, PS11747304; replaces 9760774 / 1201761 / 8301514), a 3240W 240V two-coil element; on WOS/WOD wall-oven and WOC combo cavities the broil element is W10804429 (PS11722938; replaces W10317383 / W10764078 / W10686247). We ohm the broil element cold against a field-accept band of roughly 15-18 ohms (a 3240W/240V element computes to about 17.8 ohms hot, and a cold winding reads at or just below that) and watch it on a broil call: a healthy roof element reads in the mid-teens of ohms and glows fully red end to end, while an OL/open reading or a section that stays dark with the rest red condemns the element before any board. The mode-isolation tell is decisive - broil dead with bake fine is the element; BOTH modes dead moves the fault upstream to the control, relay board, or a post-self-clean thermal cut-off, not the broil element.
• A broil element that meters good on continuity (mid-teens of ohms) but still won't glow is the tell that the fault is upstream on the broil relay leg, not the element. On the Whirlpool oven platform the bake and broil circuits are switched by separate relays - on relay-board families 9754378 and 7428P008-60 (double and wall units), a failed relay is documented to drop "no bake, no broil, or no convection" while the panel still lights and accepts settings. A relay that no longer closes on the broil channel leaves a perfectly good WP9760774 / W10804429 element stone cold, and this commonly shows NO fault code at all - only the F1E0 (communication) / F1E1 (checksum) pair flags the control's own EEPROM, not a dead relay. We put an AC voltmeter on the broil element terminals with broil called: full 240V present and a dead element is the element; no voltage at the terminals with a good element is the broil relay leg on the 9754378 relay board (main control WP9782455 on this family), proven on the meter before quoting a four-figure-adjacent board.
• The dangerous inverse of no-broil is a broiler that comes on and STAYS on - the roof element glows during preheat or bake and won't shut off until the breaker is pulled. The cause is a welded/stuck-closed broil relay on the Whirlpool relay board (9754378 / 7428P008-60 families) feeding the broil element WP9760774 continuous power regardless of what the RTD sensor reports. This is the same control fault behind a runs-hot/overshoot bake complaint, surfaced on the broil leg, and it typically sets NO code (only F1E0/F1E1 flag the control's EEPROM). A broiler-stuck-on is never reset-and-returned: we prove the welded relay on the meter by watching AC voltage at the broil terminals when the board commands broil OFF, because an element that cannot be switched off is a fire risk, not an intermittent glitch.
• On a GAS Whirlpool range (WFG family) or gas wall oven the broiler is fired through the oven gas train, so a no-broil-with-good-bake call splits at the dual-outlet oven safety valve WP74006427 (PS11744133, AP6010942), which feeds BOTH the bake and broil burners and carries two separate solenoid coils - one bake, one broil - so the broil side can fail open while bake still fires. The field test is to meter EACH terminal set individually on Rx1: a good coil reads roughly 0-50 ohms, OL means that solenoid is open and dead. Because the valve only opens once the igniter pulls enough current through it, we replace the broil solenoid/valve ONLY after the igniter passes its amp test, so an owner is not sold a safety valve when a weak igniter is the real cost.
• When the gas broiler clicks-or-glows but won't light and bake is fine, the fault is most often the hot-surface (glow-bar) igniter weakening on the broil leg rather than the valve. The Whirlpool flat Norton-style oven igniter kit 12400035 (PS1573892) is wired in SERIES with the WP74006427 safety valve - the igniter's own current draw is what flexes the valve bimetal open - so as the silicon-carbide element ages high-resistance, it glows orange for more than 90 seconds but no longer pulls the current the broil solenoid needs and no gas releases. A healthy flat igniter of this style draws about 3.2A; the valve bimetal needs roughly 3.0A minimum to open, and a weak igniter glowing visibly while drawing under ~2.8A is condemned even though it still lights up. The trap is that a resistance/ohm test CANNOT catch this: an igniter reading inside the normal flat-igniter band can still be too weak to open the valve. We clamp the amp draw in the igniter leg during a broil call - an orange (not white-hot) glow with a sub-3.0A draw confirms the igniter; a strong white-hot draw with no flame shifts the fault to the broil solenoid on WP74006427.
• A grease-fouled or drifted RTD oven temperature sensor reads on a broil call as a broiler that fires briefly then cuts out, or never holds, because broil is the highest-heat mode and the most sensitive to a probe feeding the board a false-high cavity temperature - the board reads the cavity as already at the broil ceiling and stops driving the element. The RTD is WPW10131825 (AP6015486, PS11748765), a platinum PTC that reads about 1080 ohms at 70F and climbs ~+2 ohms per degree F. F3E0 and F3E1 are the Whirlpool oven-temperature-sensor codes that surface here (open OR shorted sensor / control / wiring on the affected oven cavity); the cheapest honest first move - cheaper than any broil part - is to clean the probe tip and harness connector (broil grease loads the sensor first) and re-meter against the ~1000-1200 ohm room-temp band before condemning anything. A recovered probe restores broil with no part.
• A panel that locks out the broil function entirely - Broil won't engage, no element voltage, no ignition sequence - can be a UI fault masquerading as a dead broiler rather than an element or relay problem. Whirlpool ovens run the F#E# dialect of the range line: an F2E1 (stuck/shorted keypad key, or a heat-shifted keypad ribbon after a hot broil soak) can lock the panel so Broil never registers, reading to the owner as a broiler that simply won't come on with perfectly good elements and relays. A one-minute power-down clears a false F2E1 trip; we then reseat and inspect the keypad ribbon at the control before quoting any part, separating a recoverable touchpad nuisance from a genuine control board, which is the difference between a reseat and a four-figure-adjacent part.

Whirlpool broiler not working in Toronto — the local specifics

• The recurring Whirlpool-broiler pattern we see across Toronto is the clean split: a customer reports the broiler dead while baking still works fine, and on an electric range or wall oven that almost always lands on an open roof broil element (WP9760774 on ranges, W10804429 on WOS/WOD/WOC cavities) rather than the board - mode isolation does the diagnosis before the meter confirms it with a cold reading in the mid-teens of ohms. The second recurring pattern is the broil element that meters good but won't glow, which we trace to the broil relay leg on the 9754378-family relay board, a fault that throws no code and gets a voltage-at-the-terminals proof rather than a board-cannon. On gas WFG units the recurring call is glow-bar-glows-but-broiler-won't-light, isolated to the broil solenoid on the WP74006427 dual-outlet valve or a weak 12400035 igniter by amp draw.
• We carry both Whirlpool broil elements to these calls - WP9760774 (roof, ranges and many wall ovens) and W10804429 (WOS/WOD wall-oven and WOC combo cavities) - plus the WPW10131825 RTD sensor for the grease-fouled-probe broil cutout, so an electric broil-dead diagnosis is finished on the first trip. For gas WFG broilers we bring the 12400035 flat igniter and meter the WP74006427 dual-outlet safety valve's broil solenoid on site; the relay board (9754378) and main control (WP9782455) are the only items we confirm by model/serial before ordering.

For the full Whirlpool wall oven module — every fault, part number and code — see Whirlpool wall oven repair in Toronto, and for the same fault across all brands the wall oven broiler not working guide.