KitchenAid Stove Repair in Toronto — Gas burner clicks but won't light

• Clicks but no flame on one burner is a cap/port problem before it is ever a part. On KitchenAid freestanding and slide-in gas ranges (KFGG/KFGD freestanding gas, KSDB dual-fuel slide-in) the burner won't light if the cap and head are seated off their locating notch or a boil-over has carbonized the ports. KitchenAid's own guidance is to clear clogged burner ports with a straight pin (without enlarging or distorting the port, and not a wooden toothpick) and dry any moisture in the ports or under the cap; a cool-setting hair dryer at the knob shaft speeds the dry-out. We lift the cap, brush and clear, and reseat to the notch first, because this $0 fix clears a large share of single-burner no-light calls and keeps us from selling an electrode the range never needed.
• Clicks but no spark (or a weak yellow spark) on a single burner points to the surface spark electrode at that position - KitchenAid WP8523793 (alternate WP9782116 on some models). The electrode fires the gas at the burner head; when its ceramic is cracked, carbon-fouled, or moisture-soaked it won't arc or arcs too weakly to catch. KitchenAid codes these electrodes by burner position, so the exact part varies by model and serial - we confirm the position before ordering. We diagnose by comparing to the neighbouring burners: if the others spark clean and only one is dead, the WP8523793 electrode (not the shared module) is the failed part.
• One burner that won't even start clicking when its knob is turned - while the others spark normally - is the spark ignition switch behind that knob, not the electrode or module. The switch closes to send voltage to the spark module; a pitted or burnt contact means that position never signals the module, so there is no click and no spark on that burner alone. On the Whirlpool platform KitchenAid does not sell this switch separately - it comes as the model-coded spark switch-and-harness assembly, which we confirm by model and serial and price honestly up front rather than quoting a bare switch that doesn't exist for the unit.
• All burners click continuously but none light - including after a knob is released - is the shared surface-burner spark module, not one electrode. The module supplies the high-voltage pulses to every electrode; a failed module or stuck relay sparks all positions at once and lights none. Because module failure is the one fault that makes the whole cooktop tick together, we condemn it LAST - only after the electrodes (WP8523793) and the switches test good - and confirm the model-coded module by model and serial. We never lead with the most expensive part on a no-light call; a whole-cooktop click is also frequently just moisture in the switches from cleaning, a $0 dry-out before any part comes out.
• Weak, lazy, or yellow flame that barely catches even with a healthy electrode and module is frequently a gas-type/orifice mismatch - a range left on its factory natural-gas orifices after an LP install, or a partially blocked orifice. KitchenAid ships the natural-gas-to-LP range conversion kit WP3192741 (the cooktop surface orifices in a set) for exactly this; when the orifice and regulator pressure don't match the supplied gas, the burner barely lights. This is a TSSA-certified gas-fitter correction (orifice change and regulator pressure set), not a blind parts-swap.
• On KitchenAid downdraft ranges and cooktops (KSDG950 dual-fuel downdraft slide-in, KCGD500 gas downdraft cooktop), a burner that sparks but won't stay lit is frequently the downdraft vent itself, not a fault: the vent pulls the flame off the electrode before it establishes, so the burner reads as 'won't light.' Per KitchenAid, the fix is to lower the downdraft blower speed or raise the flame setting for that burner - a distinct no-light cause a non-downdraft range cannot have, and one we check before quoting any ignition part on these models.
• A 'gas won't light' complaint is often the OVEN, not the cooktop - and the two systems are separate. The surface burners use the spark module + WP8523793 electrodes, while the gas oven burner uses the flat glow-bar igniter 12400035: when that igniter weakens it glows but won't draw enough current to open the safety valve, so the oven won't bake even though it lights at the cooktop. We confirm which system is dead first - and rule out the cheap causes (purging air from the supply line on a newly installed range, and clearing the Cooktop Lock control-lockout that can engage after a power loss) - so a cooktop electrode call isn't mis-quoted as a 12400035 oven-igniter job, or vice versa.

KitchenAid gas burner clicks but won't light in Toronto — the local specifics

• The recurring KitchenAid no-light pattern we see across Toronto is a single front burner that clicks but won't catch after a boil-over - a carbon-fouled or cracked WP8523793 electrode and a clogged cap/port, not the shared module. The tell is that the other burners spark and light clean; when only one is dead and its switch tests good, it's that position's electrode and a port-clean, which we resolve in one visit. We also see a steady run of 'whole cooktop clicks, nothing lights' calls that turn out to be moisture in the switches from cleaning - a $0 dry-out, not a module.
• We carry the WP8523793 surface spark electrode (and the alternate WP9782116) plus a port-cleaning pin and soft brush to every KitchenAid no-light call, since the single-burner electrode/port fix covers the majority. We bring a meter to isolate the spark ignition switch and module before ordering the model-coded switch-and-harness or module on the follow-up, and a TSSA-certified fitter for any job that turns out to be an orifice/LP-conversion (WP3192741) correction.

For the full KitchenAid stove module — every fault, part number and code — see KitchenAid stove repair in Toronto, and for the same fault across all brands the stove gas burner clicks but won't light guide.