KitchenAid Wall Oven Repair in Toronto — Gas oven won't ignite (igniter glows weakly)

• The defining KitchenAid gas-oven no-ignite fault is a weakened hot-surface (glow-bar) bake igniter that still glows orange but no longer pulls enough current to open the safety valve. On the Whirlpool gas platform these ranges (KFGG/KFGD freestanding, KSGG slide-in, KFGD500/KSGG700 double-oven families) use the bake-burner tube igniter W11596211 - the current part that supersedes WP7432P143-60 / 7432P143-60 / 74007965 (AP7193202, PS11744546), a flat 1-inch square-grid hot-surface igniter that also serves as a bake-or-broil unit. It is wired in series with the oven safety valve, and as the silicon-carbide element ages its resistance climbs and its current draw falls below the valve's open threshold, so the bar glows but the bimetal never flexes and no gas releases. The field rule we follow: if the igniter glows more than ~90 seconds without the burner catching, it has weakened and must be replaced even though it still lights up. We clamp-meter igniter current on every KitchenAid gas no-bake before condemning anything (RepairClinic / JustAnswer 'igniter glows but won't light' guidance).
• Igniter draw, not the glow, is the pass/fail. A healthy hot-surface igniter measures roughly 40-400 ohms cold (typically ~80-175 ohms, near 80 ohms at room temperature), and its resistance must rise enough on heating to pull the safety valve open; a meter reading at or under ~2.7 amps in the running circuit means the igniter is too weak to flex the bimetal and the oven never gets gas. We read the actual current against the igniter rather than eyeballing the orange glow, because a glowing-but-under-amperage W11596211 is exactly the case owners assume is fine - the most common misdiagnosis on these ranges.
• When the W11596211 igniter tests strong on current draw but no flame appears, the fault shifts to the dual-outlet oven safety valve WP74006427 (PS11744133, AP6010942; replaces 74006427 / 7501P097-60 / 895773), which feeds BOTH the bake and broil burners on the KitchenAid/Whirlpool/Maytag/Jenn-Air gas-oven platform and assures no gas releases until the igniter is hot. It is a fail-safe bimetal device that only opens once the igniter heats it; a tired or snapped bimetal stays shut regardless of a healthy igniter. We meter the valve coil for continuity - a good coil reads only about 1-1.5 ohms across the terminals, OL means it is open and dead - and we replace the valve ONLY after the igniter passes its amp test, so an owner is not sold a ~$150-180 valve when a weak igniter is the real cost.
• Bakes fine but won't broil (or the reverse) splits the diagnosis by heat path. On these KitchenAid gas ranges the bake burner is glow-bar (W11596211 in series with the WP74006427 valve), but the broil burner on many models is spark-electrode ignited - so a no-broil-with-good-bake call points at the broil spark electrode / spark module feedback path, not the bake igniter. We confirm which burner is dead and which ignition type it uses before ordering, because dropping a bake igniter on a broil-only no-ignite leaves the customer with the same cold broiler and a second truck roll.
• A brand-new or recently moved KitchenAid gas range that bakes cold while the cooktop lights normally is most often the rear gas pressure regulator shut-off valve left in the OFF position, not a failed igniter. Per KitchenAid's own product-help, the factory default is ON but the lever is frequently flipped to OFF during handling or transport - and in OFF, gas reaches the cooktop burners but the oven receives no gas at all, so a perfectly good igniter glows over a dead burner. We slide the range out and confirm the regulator lever is ON before quoting any ignition part - the cheapest honest fix on a new-install no-ignite, and one a cooktop-still-works complaint practically diagnoses itself.
• Two more $0, non-part causes we rule in first on a KitchenAid gas no-ignite: air in the supply line and a fouled oven burner. A newly connected range, a recently emptied or just-refilled supply, or any gas-off service leaves a healthy igniter glowing with nothing to burn until the line is purged; and a bake burner head whose ports are carbonized from spillover or damp after a cleaning will not carry flame across to light even with full gas and a strong igniter. We verify gas is actually reaching the burner, purge the line, and dry and clear the burner ports before quoting any igniter, valve or module - all gas-supply, orifice and regulator work on these ranges is TSSA-certified gas-fitter scope in Ontario.
• A weak, lazy or yellow flame that barely catches even with a strong igniter and open valve is frequently a gas-type/orifice mismatch rather than an ignition fault - a range left on its factory natural-gas oven orifice after an LP install, or LP run on natural gas. KitchenAid supplies the oven bake/broil LP conversion orifices as W11126051 (replaces W10566537 / AP6048267) on the KitchenAid/Whirlpool/Maytag/Jenn-Air gas-oven platform, separate from the WP3192741 / W10170516 cooktop surface spuds; when the orifice bore and the regulator pressure (set by the W11087445 regulator) do not match the supplied gas, the oven burner barely lights. We confirm the oven orifice matches the gas type before condemning the igniter - and the orifice-and-regulator correction is TSSA-certified work, not a blind parts-swap.

KitchenAid gas oven won't ignite (igniter glows weakly) in Toronto — the local specifics

• The recurring KitchenAid-in-Toronto pattern for gas-wont-ignite is the slow-fade weak igniter: owners report the oven taking longer and longer to start baking over weeks until it finally glows-but-won't-catch, and by the time they call the W11596211 igniter is glowing past 90 seconds without firing the burner. The second recurring pattern is seasonal - new-install and post-move no-ignites that turn out to be the rear regulator left OFF or air in the line, where the cooktop works fine and only the oven is dead.
• We roll to these calls with the bake-burner igniter W11596211 (supersedes WP7432P143-60) and a dual-outlet oven safety valve WP74006427 on the truck, plus a clamp meter to read igniter amp-draw before swapping anything - so a confirmed weak igniter is a same-visit fix and a strong-igniter/dead-valve case is not a second trip. We also carry the W11126051 oven LP orifice for any unit that turns out to be a gas-type mismatch rather than an ignition failure.

For the full KitchenAid wall oven module — every fault, part number and code — see KitchenAid wall oven repair in Toronto, and for the same fault across all brands the wall oven gas oven won't ignite (igniter glows weakly) guide.