JennAir Stove Repair in Toronto — No spark (igniter failure)

• Whole top dead, no click on any burner = lost feed to or failed re-ignition spark module (WPW10475147): inspectapedia's JennAir gas-cooktop diagnosis is explicit that when every igniter quits at once the cause is a lost connection to the igniter control module or a failed module itself, not six dead electrodes. On this Whirlpool/KitchenAid-platform top the 4-point re-ignition module under the cooktop powers every electrode; a true no-spark-anywhere state means the module has lost power, lost its harness, or failed internally. Per JennAir/RepairClinic procedure WPW10475147 is condemned only after we confirm 120V to the module and that the spark switches (WP74007774) and electrodes are not the cause - this is the genuine dead-module fault, distinct from the moisture-driven constant-click that gets a healthy module needlessly swapped.
• One burner with absolutely no spark while the others fire = that burner's spark electrode open or its lead off (WP74009336): the verified Jenn-Air-compatible surface electrode is WP74009336 (AP6011124 / PS11744318), a male-spade electrode just under 1.5 inches mounted under the burner. Per PartSelect/Fix.com it's tested by checking continuity across the leads - no continuity means replace. A cracked electrode that has gone fully open, or a spark wire pulled off the terminal, gives a stone-dead single burner with zero click while its neighbours spark normally. We meter the electrode and reseat its lead before ordering; WP74009336 vs the KitchenAid-sibling electrode WP8523793 (AP6012852 / PS11746068 / 74007473) is model-coded, so we confirm the right one by model/serial - both are valid Whirlpool/Jenn-Air surface electrodes.
• Control Lockout latched after a power blip (whole cooktop dead, no spark, controls otherwise normal): JennAir's own 'Gas Burners are Clicking but Not Lighting' Product Help states that when power is first supplied or after a power loss the surface burners sit in the Control Lockout position, and the documented release is to touch the lock key for 3 seconds. On a touch-control gas top this is the no-part no-spark we rule in first on any post-outage or post-install call, because a locked top reads as a totally dead ignition system - clearing the lock restores spark and saves a needless module quote.
• No spark because the knob never reaches the Ignite/LITE position, or the spark switch under it failed open (WP74007774): JennAir Product Help notes the igniter only sparks when the knob is aligned to the Ignite position, and on this platform each burner's spark ignition switch (verified OEM WP74007774, supplied as the switch-and-harness assembly 12002792, which replaces obsolete W10136715 / 74009905) closes to feed the module. RepairClinic's test: a switch is condemned when it shows continuity at ALL settings (stuck/shorted) - but a switch whose contacts have failed OPEN never feeds the module, so that one burner gives no spark at all. We confirm the knob reaches Ignite and bench-test the switch for an open before touching the module.
• No spark after a clean, spill, or boil-over (moisture killing the spark path): JennAir lists moisture in the switches and moisture in the burner ports from cleaning or a spill as primary causes on its no-light Product Help. Water in a spark switch can bridge it dead or short it, and moisture under the cap can bleed the high-voltage spark to the burner base before it ever jumps the gap - so the burner reads as no-spark. Per JennAir we let the unit fully dry (we run it 24h unplugged, or cool air from a blow dryer onto the knob shafts and burner wells with knobs off) and re-test before condemning any electrode, switch, or the WPW10475147 module - a same-visit no-parts correction.
• Reversed line/neutral polarity at the receptacle (no usable spark after an install, move, or outlet change): inspectapedia documents a JennAir owner whose hot and neutral were reversed at the outlet, producing erratic ignition and an electrical hazard. The spark/flame-sense circuit on this platform needs a correct hot-neutral reference; a swapped receptacle can leave the top sparking erratically or not at all. On any unit that lost spark right after an install, move, or receptacle change we confirm polarity with a 3-light tester before condemning a single ignition part (correct polarized outlet: narrow slot hot, wide slot neutral, round pin ground; on the appliance cord the ribbed conductor is neutral, the smooth one hot).
• No spark with the electrode, switch and power all proven good = lost flame-sense/orifice-holder ground or a chafed module harness: the re-ignition platform references ground through the burner base / orifice holder, and a corroded, bent, or non-grounding holder can leave the module unable to drive a clean spark. Likewise a pinched, melted, or grease-fouled lead between the spark switch (WP74007774) and the module (WPW10475147) can break the spark feed. We reground and reseat the orifice holder and chase the harness and connectors before condemning the board - the module is the most expensive part in this no-spark chain and a $5 burnt terminal or a lost ground throws the same dead-spark symptom.

JennAir no spark (igniter failure) in Toronto — the local specifics

• The recurring Toronto pattern on JennAir no-spark is that a genuinely dead-everywhere top is far more often a latched Control Lockout, a moisture-shorted spark switch after a kitchen clean, or reversed-polarity wiring from a recent reno than a failed spark module - and a single dead burner is almost always that burner's WP74009336 electrode gone open or its lead knocked off during a cleaning, not the shared board. We see the WPW10475147 module condemned needlessly when the real fault was the cheap end of the chain.
• We roll to these calls with the platform ignition parts on the truck: the WP74009336 surface spark electrode and its KitchenAid-sibling WP8523793, a WPW10475147 re-ignition spark module, and WP74007774 spark ignition switches (plus the 12002792 switch-and-harness assembly), so a confirmed open electrode, stuck/open switch, or genuinely failed module is a same-visit fix. A 3-light polarity tester and a meter ride along to rule out lockout, moisture, lost ground and a reversed receptacle before any part is quoted.

For the full JennAir stove module — every fault, part number and code — see JennAir stove repair in Toronto, and for the same fault across all brands the stove no spark (igniter failure) guide.