Frigidaire Wall Oven Repair in Toronto — Gas oven won't ignite (igniter glows weakly)

• The defining gas-wont-ignite fault on an Electrolux-platform Frigidaire is a WEAK glow-bar igniter that still glows but no longer draws enough current to open the safety valve. The flat-style silicon-carbide bake igniter -- 316489400 (PS1528534, AP3963540, IG94; current OEM number 5304534663; replaces 316428500/316428501/5304462661/7316489400/1197384) -- must pull roughly 3.0-3.6 amps through the safety-valve bimetal to crack it open; a new one draws about 3.4-3.6A. As the silicon carbide ages it goes resistive: it still lights up a dull orange (so the homeowner sees it 'working') but the current drops, and below about 2.6A the valve never opens and you get glow-but-no-flame. We clamp an ammeter on one igniter lead during a bake call -- under 2.8A condemns the igniter regardless of how bright it looks, which is why a visual 'it glows fine' is never our test.
• The 90-second rule is the field tell on these ovens: if the igniter glows for more than about 90 seconds without the burner lighting, the igniter is too weak to open the safety valve and is replaced -- a fully strong igniter brings the bake burner to flame within roughly 60 seconds. A Frigidaire that takes longer and longer to light over weeks, then finally just glows and quits, is a textbook dying igniter, not a control-board fault. We time the glow-to-flame on the first cycle before pulling anything; a slow-but-eventually-lighting oven is already on the igniter's last weeks.
• No glow at all (dead igniter, not weak) is the open-circuit case: the flat-style igniter has cracked or burned through, so the safety-valve circuit never energizes and there is no glow and no gas. We meter the igniter for continuity at its plug -- an open/'OL' reading condemns 316489400/5304534663 outright. A hairline crack in the silicon carbide reads open even when the element looks intact, so we trust the meter over the eye; a no-continuity igniter is a definite replace, never a board call.
• Bake won't ignite but BROIL still works (or the reverse) isolates the fault to one igniter/valve circuit, not the EOC -- on a Frigidaire gas oven the bake and broil burners run on independent safety-valve coils, so one dead mode is the igniter or that mode's valve coil, not the control. Some models use the alternate open-cage/round-style bake/broil igniter 316489403 (PS2364063, AP4433236; replaces 1513415/5304508786/7316489403) on the affected burner. We run each mode separately: one mode dead = that burner's igniter; BOTH modes dead moves the fault upstream to the EOC relay or power feed.
• Igniter draws full current and glows strong but STILL no flame points at the gas oven safety valve, not the igniter -- the valve's internal bimetal isn't opening even with proper current, or the valve coil is open. The safety valve (3203459, AP2131109 on many freestanding ranges) is non-resettable: if it has failed it cannot be reset and is replaced. We confirm the igniter is pulling 3.0A+ on the clamp meter FIRST, then check the valve coil for continuity and listen for gas -- only a proven-good-current-but-no-gas result condemns the far-less-common valve, so we never parts-cannon a $90+ valve before clearing the $40 igniter.
• No glow AND no spark on the surface burners too, with the clock dead or tripped, is a power/supply fault, not an oven part: a Frigidaire gas range still needs 120VAC for the igniter circuit and EOC, so a tripped breaker, a backed-out range cord, or a dead EOC leaves the igniter unpowered. We confirm the cooktop spark and clock work (proving 120V is present) before condemning any igniter -- if surface burners click and the clock runs but the oven igniter never glows, the fault is the igniter or its harness; if everything is dead, we chase the supply and the EOC 316418720 (PS977998, AP3781481) instead.
• An oven that lit fine until a self-clean run and now won't ignite usually traces to the high-heat cycle stressing the ignition circuit -- the pyrolytic temperature can crack the silicon-carbide igniter or open a thermal limiter feeding the bake circuit. We test the igniter continuity and the thermal cut-out before touching the valve or EOC, because the extreme self-clean cavity heat takes out the brittle igniter element far more often than the gas valve or the control board on a 'died right after self-clean' gas Frigidaire.

Frigidaire gas oven won't ignite (igniter glows weakly) in Toronto — the local specifics

• The recurring Frigidaire-in-Toronto pattern for gas-wont-ignite is the slow-dying glow-bar: homeowners call it in as 'the oven takes forever to light, now it just glows orange and nothing,' and on the clamp meter the igniter is pulling well under spec while still visibly glowing -- a weak-igniter-mistaken-for-working call we see constantly across the Frigidaire/Electrolux/Kenmore-790 gas family. The other steady pattern is bake-dead-but-broil-fine, which points us straight at that one burner's igniter rather than the control. Self-clean-then-no-ignite calls cluster after holiday cooking when people run the pyrolytic cycle and crack the brittle igniter.
• We carry the flat-style bake igniter 316489400/5304534663 (IG94, the high-runner) plus the open-cage 316489403 to every Frigidaire gas-wont-ignite call, a clamp ammeter to prove igniter current draw before we condemn anything, and the gas oven safety valve 3203459 on the van for the less-common glow-but-strong-current-no-flame jobs -- so most Toronto calls close same-visit without an order-and-return.

For the full Frigidaire wall oven module — every fault, part number and code — see Frigidaire wall oven repair in Toronto, and for the same fault across all brands the wall oven gas oven won't ignite (igniter glows weakly) guide.