Maytag Washing Machine Repair in Toronto — Not agitating (top-load)

• Bravos / Centennial top-load (MVWB/MVWC/MVWX, VMW platform), the signature Maytag no-agitate: the W10006355 shift actuator (current OEM WPW10006355; also AP6014711 / PS11747977 / 1719787 / WPW10006355VP) fails on the AGITATE side rather than the spin side. The actuator is a small 120V synchronous motor (about 3 RPM) that drives the splutch slider, and an internal plastic pin/arm rotates the cam to engage the gearcase in agitate; when that pin snaps the arm just dangles, the splutch never locks into agitate, and the machine fills, drains and spins but the washplate barely oscillates or sits dead-still on wash. The agitate-relevant fault code is F7E5 -- a shifter/shift-actuator position fault, logged when the control can't confirm the shifter reached the commanded position (you may also see F7E6, an actuator overcurrent). F7E1 (basket speed / drive-motor tachometer fault -- control can't read basket speed) can co-log but is a speed/spin-side code, not the no-agitate signature on its own. The discipline is actuator-until-proven-otherwise on a no-agitate-but-spins-fine Bravos: it is commonly stocked, inexpensive and frequently a one-visit fix.
• The mechanical companion to the actuator is the splutch cam / drive-pulley kit W10721967 (replaces W10006356 / W10006382 / W10315818 / W10326374 / AP5951296 / PS10057144): the actuator can shift correctly but if the cam ring, slider or drive pulley is worn or cracked the washplate never engages agitate -- you get a grind/click and a stationary or weakly-wobbling washplate while the basket itself is fine. The kit carries the drive pulley, basket drive gear, splutch housing, cam ring, spring and nut. The diagnostic split is to bench-test the actuator first; if it passes but agitation still slips with noise, it is the splutch cam, not a second actuator. This is the failure that catches techs who swap only the W10006355 and still fail the agitate test.
• The signature Bravos no-agitate that is NOT the drive at all is a stripped basket drive hub: the W10528947 drive hub kit (replaces W10396887 / W10528947VP, AP5665171 / 2684908 / PS6012095; carries the basket driven hub and drive block retainer; Bravos MVWX655DW1/DW2, MVWC565FW1, MVWB835DW1, WTW5000DW1/DW3) sits under the washplate and couples the washplate to the drive shaft. When its splines round off, the shaft turns but the washplate freewheels -- the classic 'motor runs, washplate doesn't move' or 'agitates very weakly' call, and the forum-confirmed tell is that the washplate fitted WITHOUT the worn hub will move correctly. We feel the washplate for spline play before condemning the actuator, because a stripped hub mimics a dead actuator and is a far cheaper fix.
• Worn agitator dogs / cam on the dual-action Whirlpool-built Maytag top-loads: on machines with a two-piece agitator the directional dogs and cam in the top cap strip so the upper agitator stops driving in one or both directions while the lower barrel still moves -- or it freewheels entirely. The fix is the 285811 agitator cam repair kit (agitator cam, four directional dogs/cogs, cam bearing, thrust washer, rubber washer and cap seal; OEM for direct-drive dual-action agitators, replaces AP3138838 / PS334650). We grab the agitator by hand and feel for the ratchet in both directions before opening anything; a freewheeling top cap is the cheapest no-agitate fix on this platform and is over-diagnosed as a transmission.
• Legacy Whirlpool-built direct-drive Maytag top-loads (pre-VMW): a failed motor coupling 285753A (AP3963893 / PS1485646) is the sacrificial link between the motor shaft and transmission that breaks on overload -- the motor hums but won't agitate (and often won't spin either), the most common no-agitate on these older units. It is a low-cost one-visit fix. We bench-test the drive to split a snapped coupler from a worn agitator-dog set, since both present as 'won't agitate' but are different parts. These machines are absurdly repairable and worth saving.
• Legacy Maytag-built orbital / Dependable Care belt-drive (pre-2006 Newton-built, the brand's own heritage transmission, NOT a Whirlpool platform): a glazed or slipping drive belt robs agitation. The belt kit 12112425 (AP4011179 / PS2005284) carries both the main drive belt 211125 and the pump belt 211124; when the drive belt glazes or stretches it slips on the pulley and the orbital transmission can't drive the agitator through the wash stroke even though the motor runs. We replace the belt set and re-seat the tensioner rather than re-stretch a glazed belt -- and lead with honesty on these 20-plus-year-old machines, since the orbital parts book is ageing and economics, not just the part, drives the call.

Maytag not agitating (top-load) in Toronto — the local specifics

• The recurring Toronto pattern on Maytag no-agitate is the spins-fine-but-washplate-dead Bravos: the customer reports clothes coming out still soiled and dry-ish on top, and on the bench it splits between a broken-pin shift actuator (commonly with an F7E5 shifter fault logged) and a stripped W10528947 drive hub -- two different parts that present identically, which is why we always feel the washplate for spline play before quoting the actuator. The other steady stream is older Toronto homes still running legacy direct-drive Maytags where a snapped 285753A motor coupling hums but won't agitate.
• We bring the three Bravos agitate high-runners to these calls -- W10006355 shift actuator, W10721967 splutch cam kit and W10528947 drive hub kit -- plus a 285753A coupling and a 285811 agitator cam kit for the legacy direct-drive units common in Toronto's older housing, so the typical no-agitate diagnosis is closed in a single visit.

For the full Maytag washing machine module — every fault, part number and code — see Maytag washing machine repair in Toronto, and for the same fault across all brands the washing machine not agitating (top-load) guide.