LG Dishwasher Repair in Toronto — Not draining / standing water

• OE is LG's drain fault and where every not-draining call starts. LG's own troubleshooting flow has us clear the dual sump strainer first (a coarse filter over a fine mesh cup at the tub floor) — trapped food, labels, or seeds choke flow and re-throw OE before any part is suspect. We clean both, run a forced drain, and only condemn the pump if OE returns clean.
• When the sump is clear and OE persists, the failure is usually the drain pump itself: part ABQ73503004 (the current LG dishwasher drain pump, supersedes the older ABQ73503002; cross-refs AP5973786 / PS11706890). It fits the QuadWash LDF/LDT/LDP and LSDF/LSDT families plus a couple of Kenmore 722-series tall-tubs LG built. We bench-test the impeller for free spin and the coil for continuity before swapping.
• A specific OE trap on these pumps: broken glass or a fruit pit gets past the strainer and jams the drain impeller. The motor coil reads fine but the rotor is mechanically locked, so the unit posts OE the instant it tries to pump out. We pull the pump, fish the debris from the volute, and only replace the ABQ73503004 if a vane is chipped.
• AE (leak detected in base) is the not-draining symptom's evil twin: the base-pan float/leak sensor sees moisture and the control commands a continuous protective drain, so the pump runs non-stop and the cycle never fills or finishes. Owners read that as 'won't drain / won't run.' We dry the pan, find the seep path (door gasket corner, sump O-ring, or inlet drip), and clear the sensor — replacing the pump here would fix nothing.
• LE is a wash-motor (inverter direct-drive) lock, a separate motor from the drain pump on this platform — LG dishwashers run one circulation motor and one drain pump sharing a common sump housing. A debris-jammed or seized wash rotor can present as poor drain-down between fills, so we distinguish LE from OE up front rather than throwing a drain pump at a circulation-motor fault.
• Install-side OE with no internal fault: a kinked or sagging drain hose, no high loop / air gap, or a disposer with the factory knockout plug still in place. LG spec wants the hose end 12"-40" above the base and a high loop under the counter, or dirty water siphons back and OE returns. We re-route or pull the knockout instead of selling a part.

LG not draining / standing water in Toronto — the local specifics

• The recurring LG-in-Toronto not-draining pattern is OE that turns out to be sump-and-hose, not a dead pump: a clogged dual filter cup plus a drain run that was never given a proper high loop into a shared disposer connection. The genuine pump failures we do see cluster on the older QuadWash LDF/LDT units, usually with glass or a pit locking the impeller — which is why we always open the sump and bench the impeller before condemning the ABQ73503004.
• We roll to LG not-draining calls with an ABQ73503004 drain pump for the common families, a replacement sump strainer set, fresh drain hose with clamps and high-loop bracket, and a disposer knockout punch. AE float/leak-sensor and LE wash-motor parts are model-coded, so if the diagnosis points there we confirm by serial and pre-order.

For the full LG dishwasher module — every fault, part number and code — see LG dishwasher repair in Toronto, and for the same fault across all brands the dishwasher not draining / standing water guide.