LG Refrigerator Repair in Toronto — Frost or ice build-up

• Frost packing the evaporator coil edge-to-edge with the freezer holding but the fresh-food side drifting warm is the signature LG frost-buildup fault, and on these platforms it throws the dH defrost error (LG displays it as F dH / r dH / Er dH: defrost-did-not-complete — the defrost cycle ran past its time limit, around an hour, without the coil reaching target temp). The OEM fix is the MEE62805106 defrost-heater assembly (it supersedes the older MEE62805103), the sheath heater that melts the frost off the evaporator fins several times a day; when it opens, frost re-accumulates on the coil within a day or two, chokes airflow, and the box can't pull the fresh-food side down. We confirm by pulling the rear evaporator panel and ohming the heater — an open reading (often with a blackened glass tube) is the tell — before replacing, because a hairdryer thaw alone just re-ices.
• The dH error is not always the heater itself — the defrost thermistor/sensor assembly (6615JB2005-series, the NTC sensor that monitors evaporator-coil temperature so the board knows when defrost has finished) can drift or open and either terminate defrost early or never call for it, so frost builds even with a good heater. We resistance-test the sensor against the board's temperature curve before condemning the MEE62805106 — a sensor reading out of spec gets the cheaper part swapped, and a heater that reads open gets the heater; replacing the wrong one is a repeat frost call.
• The third leg of the defrost circuit is the bi-metal defrost thermostat / thermal fuse (the 3-wire 6615JB2002A-class part that caps the heater so it can't overheat). When that bi-metal opens permanently it cuts power to the MEE62805106 heater, so the heater never fires and the coil frosts solid even though the heater element itself is fine. On a frost-buildup call we test all three — heater, sensor and bi-metal/fuse — as one circuit, because LG sells them as related parts on the same evaporator and replacing only one while another is open brings the frost straight back.
• A sheet of ice on the freezer floor (rather than on the coil) is a clogged/frozen defrost drain, not a defrost-heater fault. LG routes meltwater down a drain channel under the evaporator, and on these units the drain has a small drain strap (a metal tab off the defrost heater that conducts heat partway down the tube) plus a rubber duckbill grommet at the bottom; when the strap is missing/displaced or the duckbill hardens, the drain freezes shut, meltwater backs up and re-freezes as a floor sheet. LG's own guidance flags a sheet of ice at the bottom of the freezer as a blocked drain line and a trained-technician repair, because it requires disassembling the evaporator section to thaw and flush the channel, reseat/replace the drain strap and trim or replace the hardened duckbill.
• Frost that keeps reloading the evaporator/fresh-food compartment after a thaw is an air-seal problem feeding the EAU64824401 evaporator DC fan motor (it supersedes the EAU61505013). A torn or compressed door gasket — or a freezer compartment that no longer seals — lets warm humid Toronto air in, which freezes onto the blade and re-jams the fan within weeks, and because it's a DC motor the board loses the fan's RPM/speed feedback and stops circulating cold air. We address the moisture source (gasket, door alignment, level) alongside the fan; replacing the EAU64824401 alone on a frost-loaded box without fixing the air leak is a guaranteed repeat call.
• Per LG's own frost-buildup guidance, a freezer set colder than 0°F is a real cause, not user error to wave off — an over-cold setpoint can keep the automatic defrost from fully melting the cycle's frost, so it accumulates, and LG advises raising the setpoint for at least 24 hours. We check the setpoint and verify the freezer is holding near 0°F before tearing into the sealed system; correcting a cranked-down setpoint (people run colder than 0°F) plus cleaning/reseating the gasket resolves a meaningful share of 'frost is back' calls with no part at all.
• A leaking water inlet valve drives frost on the ice/water side: the AJU72992603 dual-solenoid valve (it feeds both the ice maker and the door dispenser off two coils) can weep past a worn seat and ice up the fill area, mimicking a defrost problem. The tell is frost localized to the ice-room/fill-tube zone rather than across the whole evaporator. We confirm the valve is the source — versus a frozen fill tube from a door-gasket air leak — before replacing, because thawing a fill-tube plug needs no part while a weeping AJU72992603 does.

LG frost or ice build-up in Toronto — the local specifics

• The recurring LG-in-Toronto frost pattern we see is the full defrost circuit failing as a set — customers replace the MEE62805106 heater off a YouTube video, the frost comes back in a week, and it turns out the 6615JB2005 sensor or the 6615JB2002A bi-metal was the open part all along. The other steady pattern is a sheet of ice on the freezer floor from a frozen defrost drain (drain strap/duckbill), which owners mistake for a defrost-heater fault. We test heater, sensor and bi-metal as one circuit and check the drain before quoting.
• We roll to LG frost calls with the defrost-circuit kit — MEE62805106 heater, 6615JB2005-series defrost sensor, 6615JB2002A bi-metal/thermal fuse — plus an EAU64824401 evaporator fan, a drain-flush/duckbill kit for the freezer-floor-ice cases, and gasket-cleaning supplies, so a single visit can clear the whole defrost-and-airflow path instead of a parts-return round trip.

For the full LG refrigerator module — every fault, part number and code — see LG refrigerator repair in Toronto, and for the same fault across all brands the refrigerator frost or ice build-up guide.