Why is my fridge not cooling?
Most common cause on a refrigerator in the GTA: iced-over evaporator coil from a failed defrost system (heater, thermostat, or control). A typical repair runs $330–$470 all-in, including the $149.95 diagnostic, credited 100% toward your repair. Food stays safe ~4 hours in a closed fridge; act before spoilage. Same-day
Prices in CAD for the GTA; typical ranges — your exact quote is confirmed on-site before any work. Updated .
Most refrigerator faults in the GTA come down to a handful of parts — and the majority are worth repairing rather than replacing a 10–15 years appliance. Anthony is a Red Seal certified technician who carries the common refrigerator parts on the van, so most the GTA jobs are diagnosed and fixed in a single visit.
Refrigerator repair costs in the GTA
Honest, all-in ranges for common jobs. Every visit starts with a flat $149.95 diagnostic that is credited 100% toward your repair — so you never pay it twice.
| Problem | Parts | Labour | All-in |
|---|---|---|---|
| Not cooling | $60–$220 | $120–$200 | $330–$470 |
| Diagnostic (credited to the repair) | $149.95 |
Ranges are estimates for common the GTA jobs; your exact quote is confirmed on-site before any work begins. Prices in CAD, updated .
How your repair works
Four simple steps, no surprises.
Book
Call or request a callback. Same-day & next-day appointments available.
Diagnose
A flat $149.95 diagnostic pinpoints the real fault.
Approve
You get an upfront all-in quote first — diagnostic credited 100% toward your repair.
Repaired
Fixed with OEM parts, backed by a 90-day warranty.
Common Refrigerator problems & what we check
Tap any problem for the likely causes, what is safe to check yourself, and what it costs.
Not cooling Same-day
Not cooling: The compressor hums but the interior is warm, or you hear a fan struggling/iced-up behind the rear freezer panel.
Also described as: fridge warm, not cold enough, temperature rising
Likely causes
- Iced-over evaporator coil from a failed defrost system (heater, thermostat, or control) (Most common)
- Dirty/blocked condenser coils making the compressor overheat and cut out (Common)
- Failed evaporator fan motor (no cold-air circulation to the fridge section) (Common)
- Failed start relay or, less often, a sealed-system/compressor fault (Occasional)
✔ Safe to check yourself
- Pull the fridge out and vacuum the condenser coils (rear or bottom) — dust is the #1 avoidable cause.
- Confirm the temperature dial wasn't bumped and interior vents aren't blocked by food.
- Listen at the back: a clicking every few minutes points to a start-relay fault.
✖ Leave to a technician
- Do not bypass or jump the start relay — risk of compressor damage and shock.
- Do not repeatedly unplug/replug (short-cycling can seize the compressor).
- Any refrigerant ("freon") work is certified-only by federal regulation.
Related: Leaking water · Ice maker not working
Refrigerator not cooling by brand
Brand-specific patterns we see
- Whirlpool: On Whirlpool-built fridges (incl. Maytag, Amana, Inglis badges) the most frequent "not cooling" root is the defrost circuit on the rear evaporator — bimetal thermostat or heater — followed by adaptive-defrost control faults on electronic models.
- LG: On LG fridges built roughly 2014–2018 the dominant "stopped cooling" cause is the linear compressor. A US class settlement (approved 2020) covered units manufactured Jan 2014–Dec 2017, and LG extended compressor coverage — current terms run up to 10 years on the compressor part. Always decode the serial before quoting: a covered compressor means the customer pays labour, not the part.
- GE: On GE fridges (incl. Profile, Café, Hotpoint badges) two clusters dominate: main-board failures on the 2002–2009 side-by-side era (the famous WR55X10942 board, often after power events) and defrost-drain icing on bottom-freezer models that ends as water under the floor — fixed properly with the OEM drain-heater kit.
- Maytag: Maytag fridges are two different machines wearing one badge: pre-~2007 Maytag-built units (Newton/Amana heritage) and post-acquisition Whirlpool platforms (an MFI/MFF French door is a Whirlpool WRF underneath — same defrost parts, same fixes). The era decides the parts list, and one era carries a real recall.
- Amana: On Whirlpool-built fridges (incl. Maytag, Amana, Inglis badges) the most frequent "not cooling" root is the defrost circuit on the rear evaporator — bimetal thermostat or heater — followed by adaptive-defrost control faults on electronic models.
- Frigidaire: Frigidaire (Electrolux) fridges are the GTA's budget-volume workhorse, and their service profile is distinct: Gallery French-door ice makers in the fresh-food section are a chronic complaint, and the electronic models throw readable SY-codes — SY EF (evaporator fan) is the classic "freezer fine, fridge warm" verdict.
- Kenmore: "Kenmore" is a Sears retail badge, not a manufacturer — every Kenmore fridge is built by another maker, and the FIRST THREE DIGITS of the model number on the inside-wall sticker decode whose. The dominant refrigerator donors are 106./110./198. = Whirlpool-built (defrost-circuit profile), 596. = Amana (a Whirlpool brand, same W10 parts book), 795. = LG-built (linear-compressor era and its extended compressor coverage apply), 253. = Frigidaire-built Gallery (electronic-display platform, readable SY-codes), 970. = Frigidaire-built basic top-mount (no Gallery display), 363. = GE-built, and 401. = Samsung-built (ice-room icing profile). We decode the full model AND serial before the visit and load the real maker's platform parts — there is no such thing as a "Kenmore" part number; it IS the donor's number.
- Inglis: On Whirlpool-built fridges (incl. Maytag, Amana, Inglis badges) the most frequent "not cooling" root is the defrost circuit on the rear evaporator — bimetal thermostat or heater — followed by adaptive-defrost control faults on electronic models.
- KitchenAid: KitchenAid refrigeration splits in two: freestanding French-door/counter-depth units that are premium-trim Whirlpool platforms (same defrost and fan faults, same W10 parts), and the 42–48" built-in line (KSSC/KBSD/KBBL) whose mid-2000s generation is notorious for main-control-board failure — the W10219463 board that became scarce enough that board-rebuild services exist.
- JennAir: KitchenAid refrigeration splits in two: freestanding French-door/counter-depth units that are premium-trim Whirlpool platforms (same defrost and fan faults, same W10 parts), and the 42–48" built-in line (KSSC/KBSD/KBBL) whose mid-2000s generation is notorious for main-control-board failure — the W10219463 board that became scarce enough that board-rebuild services exist.
- GE Profile: On GE fridges (incl. Profile, Café, Hotpoint badges) two clusters dominate: main-board failures on the 2002–2009 side-by-side era (the famous WR55X10942 board, often after power events) and defrost-drain icing on bottom-freezer models that ends as water under the floor — fixed properly with the OEM drain-heater kit.
- Bosch: Bosch counter-depth fridges (300/500/800 series, B36CT etc.) are a newer fleet in Canada: dual-compressor / dual-evaporator cooling on the 800-series French doors (B36CT/B36CL) and inverter-compressor cooling on the B22CS side-by-side line, VitaFresh drawers, and a service profile led by door-alignment/condensation complaints, slow in-door ice systems, and board-level faults that read out as E-codes on the display.
- Miele: Miele MasterCool built-in columns (K/KF) and KFN freestanding bottom-mounts are factory-network territory: sealed-system work and coded electronic boards route through Miele Canada, but the everyday faults independents actually fix are mechanical and sensor-level — magnetic door-seal/hinge wear that frosts the box, NTC temperature-sensor failures that throw F-codes and mistime cooling, and defrost-drain icing that ends as water under the drawers. The honest service line matters more than a deep parts table here: gaskets, fans, drains and out-of-warranty sensors are open-distributor parts; boards and sealed systems are the factory's call.
- Thermador: Thermador built-in refrigeration is the BSH Hausgerate platform shared with Bosch and Gaggenau — Freedom Collection panel-ready columns (T30IR fresh-food, T24IR/T18IR fresh-food columns, T18ID/T24ID/T18IF freezer columns) and built-in French-door bottom-freezers (T36IT/T36BT/T42BT-class). They speak the same Bosch E-code dialect (E01 fresh-food sensor, E02 freezer sensor, E10 main board, E15 ambient/display sensor) and carry the same 10-digit 00-prefix and 8-digit (11.../12...) part numbers, so a Thermador no-cooling call is diagnosed exactly like a Bosch one: confirm the evaporator fan is turning and the coil isn't iced before anyone touches the sealed system. The dominant failures are a stalled evaporator fan (00672636) starving the cabinet of cold air, a dead defrost circuit (heater 12023292 / evaporator thermistor 11030589) that ices the coil, and condenser-side over-run from a clogged coil plus a failing fan (00795952). Parts ride the BSH channel — common refrigeration parts (fans, defrost, filters, ice makers) are open via major distributors, but several modules are model-coded and dealer-ordered, so confirm by full model/serial before ordering. Sealed-system work is EPA 608 / TSSA-scope.
- Sub-Zero: Sub-Zero built-ins are dual-refrigeration machines — separate compressors and evaporators for the fridge and freezer — so "one side warm, one side perfect" is normal physics here, not a damper mystery. The single most preventable failure is a clogged lower-grille condenser, which Sub-Zero's own care guidance says to brush/vacuum every 3–6 months; when airflow starves the unit, SERVICE flashes with EC40/EC50, and unresolved over-run escalates to fan, thermistor, or sealed-system work (which requires EPA 608-certified service and R-134a-dedicated recovery/charging equipment).
- Viking: Viking refrigeration is the company's hardest service axis: 36" built-in bottom-freezer and side-by-side platforms (Greenwood, MS; Middleby-owned since 2013) whose pre-Middleby electronics are the weak point. Two clusters dominate — control-board failure on the two-board (power + low-voltage) architecture, where a dead power board reads as no compressor / no evap fan / no defrost, and defrost-circuit/sensor faults that warm the fresh-food side. The line also carries a real, unrepaired-unit-still-in-the-field door-detachment recall on the 36" built-ins that a tech must serial-check before any hinge work.
Brand-specific refrigerator repair
Get your refrigerator fixed — not cooling repair near you
We diagnose and repair refrigerator not cooling across the GTA, same-day where possible, with the flat $149.95 diagnostic credited 100% toward your repair.
Why homeowners across the GTA call us
Repairs are carried out by Anthony, a Red Seal interprovincial journeyman who is 313A Licensed, TSSA Certified, ODP Certified — backed by $2,000,000+ general liability insurance and a 90-day workmanship warranty on every job.
Red Seal technician
Work done by Anthony, a certified journeyman — not a rotating subcontractor.
Licensed & gas-certified
313A refrigeration licence and TSSA gas certification for safe, code-correct repairs.
$2,000,000+ insured
Fully insured for general liability, so your home is protected during the repair.
90-day warranty
Parts and workmanship are warrantied — if it's not right, we come back.
OEM parts on the van
Common parts are stocked, so most jobs are completed on the first visit.
Upfront pricing
A flat $149.95 diagnostic, credited 100% toward your repair, and a quote before any work.
What our credentials mean for you
- Red Seal Certified
- The interprovincial standard for skilled trades — a journeyman who passed the national appliance-service exam.
- 313A Licensed
- Ontario's refrigeration & air-conditioning systems mechanic licence — legally required to work on sealed cooling systems.
- TSSA Certified
- Technical Standards & Safety Authority gas certification — qualified to work safely on gas appliances.
- ODP Certified
- Ozone Depletion Prevention certification — licensed to handle refrigerants responsibly and to code.
Repair or replace your refrigerator?
A simple rule of thumb: if the repair costs more than half the price of a comparable new unit and the appliance is near the end of its life, replacement may make more sense.
A refrigerator typically lasts – and costs $1,400–$2,800 to replace — so most faults under about $450 are worth fixing. We'll always tell you honestly when a repair isn't worth your money.
Keep your refrigerator running
Simple habits that prevent the most common the GTA repairs.
- Vacuum the condenser coils once a year — the single biggest cause of avoidable repairs.
- Keep a 2-inch gap behind and above the fridge so it can shed heat.
- Change the water filter every 6 months to protect the icemaker and dispenser.
- Check the door gaskets seal fully; replace them as soon as they tear or harden.
- Keep the freezer at -18°C and don't block the interior vents with food.
- Clear the defrost drain once a year to prevent leaks.
More appliance repair in the GTA
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Frequently asked questions
Why is my fridge not cooling?
Do you charge for the diagnostic?
How soon can you come out?
Are you licensed and insured?
Do you use genuine parts?
Need your refrigerator fixed in the GTA?
Same-day & next-day appointments available. Flat $149.95 diagnostic, credited 100% toward your repair, and a 90-day warranty on every repair.
Call (647) 490-7878